I have a electric and gas stve frigidaire and when pressing to bake in oven a code starts blinking F14

SOURCE: Frigidaire Electric Slide-in Range - Oven Flash

Richard, sounds like you did all the pretests. You'll need a new display panel. When you work on it, be sure to cut the power.

SOURCE: Frigidaire electri-clean oven Model RSE37BAL*5

make sure that the clock is displaying the current time of day
select timed bake
select the temp of the oven you wish to bake at
set the time you wish the oven to come on with the start knob
set the time you wich the oven to turn off with the stop knob

SOURCE: frigidaire es300

you could have a power problem.. the stove will still work with half the power..like the burners on top will work. if thats not it. the wirers could be crossed or you may have a thermal cutout thats bad. but when the tco is bad broil and bake should not be working.. hope this helps

SOURCE: Cannot bake cookies in my gas oven

First, I would buy an oven thermometer to use in the gas oven to see if the temp you set is what you are getting. Second, Perhaps, you used a different pan or cookie sheet in one vs the other? Also the cookies perhaps should be a little closer together as they bake. A cookie sheet with a lot of uncovered surface will get hotter than one with a bigger load. (ever notice the instructions for biscuits or cinnamon rolls say "sides touching"?, same reasoning. if you put a few rolls on a big sheet or pan, you'll burn the bottoms, gas or electric.) Hope this works for you, when you get happy using the gas, you won't want an electric again.

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave