Question about Samsung Washing Machines
The 4E error indicates that the washing machine has detected that there is a problem with the water supply.
The most common reason for a 4E error is a blocked or kinked water supply hose.
Follow these checks:
1. Check that the water tap connected to the washing machine is open to full.
2. Check that there are no kinks or bents in the water hose connected to the machine.
3. Check to see if the water hose mesh filter is not blocked. You should clean the water hose mesh filter at least twice a year to prevent build up.
Follow the below steps to clean a blocked water hose mesh filter.
1. Turn off the water source to the washing machine.
2. Unscrew the hose from the back of the washing machine.
3. With a pair of pliers, gently pull out the mesh filter from the end of the hose, then rinse it under the tap, until it is clean.
4. Push the filter back into place.
5. Screw the hose back onto the washing machine.
6. Turn on the tap and then make sure the connections are watertight.
7. Switch the power button off then on again.
This should resolve your problem.
Hope this helps
Posted on Nov 27, 2017
this is what i found.
If your Samsung washing machine is displaying a E4/error code on the control panel after completing the spin cycle and the clothes are still wet, we've got the solution for you. This fault is most commonly caused by an unbalanced washing machine load. https://www.espares.co.uk/advice/symptom/samsung-washing-machine-e4ue-error-code
What does 4e mean on my Samsung washing machine?This is essentially a fill timeout error which will normally mean that either the water isn't on or that an inlet valve has failed or pressure switch problem check pipes as well. Water fill time out: The washing machine has failed to fill with water in a reasonable time.24 Nov 2015Samsung washing machine error code 4E and E1 Fault Not filling in ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFlnxeB0P0gSearch for: What does 4e mean on my Samsung washing machine?
or try this link.
Samsung front load washing machine error code e4 Google Search
Posted on Nov 27, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am a recently retired engineer of 20 years, but this sounds like (based on the info given) a heater element fault, after the machine fills up and agitates a few times the heater should start, check the heater for open circuit, replace if needed, of course it just could be a wire off? if i have helped rate me please
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
An OE error presents if the washing machine has not successfully drained the water in ten minutes.
there are a few simple steps to take before calling for service.
Step 1: Check the drain pump filter.
Items caught in the drain filter will prevent proper drainage. Over time build up can occur from detergents and additives used in the machine. Manually drain unit through the drain hose, then lay a towel down to catch the water, and remove the filter. Clean the filter thoroughly and restart the machine.
Step 2: Check the washers drain hose.
If the drain hose is not installed properly, the washer will not drain properly. The drain hose should not be installed more than 1 meter higher than the bottom of the washing machine.
Step 3: Confirm that the washer is leveled properly.
If the unit is not leveled properly, it will not drain properly. The front of the unit cannot be higher than the back or vice versa. If not properly leveled, the water can flow back into the machine. If this is the cause of the problem, please level the machine using the supplied leveling wrench. When you place a level on the washing machine, the bubble should be in the center. Confrim that the washer is leveled from side to side and front to back.
you can perform a diagonal test when leveling the washing machine to ensure that the unit does not tilt from corner to corner.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
LF = Long Fill
LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
Is water supply connected and turned on?
Are hose screens plugged?
Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.
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Posted on Sep 07, 2010
Testimonial: "We followed your suggestion and disconnected the hoses and they had "gunk" in them. We flushed them out, reconnected and everything seems to be fine."
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