Question about Frigidaire Ovens
Get a new oven,come on from 1976?you can't get parts for it anymore and why would you want to.
Posted on Nov 19, 2017
Testimonial: "The reason we're trying to fix the old oven, is that it's a build in and inorder to get a new one we have to tear out the wall and cabinets. Neither Frigidaire nor any oven maker makes one that fits into the space. We'd need to spend many thousands to replace this one..Hence, I'm trying to find a way to fix it..."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat
cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Dec 27, 2006
SOURCE: frigidaire single wall oven
We had a similar problem. When the repair person arrived he turned of the electicity to the oven then turned it back on. The control panel is a computer and he rebooted it.
Posted on Jan 08, 2008
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
I had the same problem after auto-cleaning my oven just before Thanksgiving. The cause was overheating...and the tripping of a heat sensor switch.
The switch (reset button) is located about 3 inches behind the door locking mechanism.
Removing the front panel (4 screws) that the door lock sticks through exposes the switch. Just push the little red button & your are back in business!!
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
I have the exact same problem with an F5 fault code. I also have a new clock assembly. RepairClinic.com said "Jenn Air fault code F5 = Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree / Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Jenn Air Fault code for newer models F5 = Power to element relays disabled in cook mode
1. Intermittent oven temperature sensor or wire harness or,
2. Intermittent contact on power relay board"
This doesn't help since it is too technical. What should I do next?
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
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