I have a rangemaster gas cooker and would like to bypass the clock can you help model number 5331

SOURCE: I have a leisure rangemaster 110 dual fuel cooker.

at the back of the timer/clock there are 4 wires live and neutral to power the timer/clock and 2 others they may be red or orange. safely connect these other 2 together and you are good to go. if you need a new clock email me [email protected]

SOURCE: leisure rangemaster 55 gas cooker

It sounds exactly the same as I am experiencing on my oven of the same model. My theory is that the full flame gas is controlled by a thermostat, and that this has broken hence why the oven only stays on preheat. This will be a matter of a replacement part. Most likely the thermostat is a bi-metal strip that, because it has heated and cooled so many times in it's life it has simply finally given up. Try searching online for the correct part and get a corgi registered fitter or another suitably qualified fitter to come and replace it.

SOURCE: rangemaster 110

Hope this helps with your dual fuel version 3 weeks on and working perfectly! Rangemaster 110. Ovens not lighting due to faulty auto/clock. FIXED! Our clock /timer kept flashing and would not reset
Someone, somewhere on the internet had the solution to my problem but I can't find the link again to thank them! If you don't mind losing the clock/timer auto function this is for you and it's free! Just takes a bit of time.
Basically you need to lift/open up the LH &RH hobs to get at the wires behind the clock. You should see 2 blue(neutral) wires coming directly from the back of the clock. Pull them out and connect together - should be easy to click them together. Then the ovens will light - but you will lose the auto/clock/timer functions. We only used the timer so not a big issue. We didn't take the control panel off but we did take ages to unscrew the hobs etc Probably took us about 2 hours going back to instruction manual we found on internet and trying to work it out but I think we've saved a lot in not replacing the unit with the usual call out charges. We made sure electrical supply was switched off and just took our time. Really chuffed!
Comment by tinling, posted on Nov 06, 2008 http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/RM110Gas_04_06.pdf

This should allow you to see the instruction manual for the 110. There was another one somewhere showing a diagram of how to link the 2 blue wires at the back of the clock but I can't find it again! By the way our cooker is 10 years old so maybe different from newer models. We didn't have to take of the front control panel we accessed everything by lifting up the hobs to get behind the clock/timer.

Hope this helps! Ovens still working just got to go and buy a wee timer.

SOURCE: how to fit a flame failure device to rangemaster 55

the part that you need is the oven ignitor, located nest to the oven burner. that part gets hot to open the gas to the burner, that will make the oven work again.

SOURCE: RANGEMASTER 110 Cooker FLAME FAILURE DEVICE fitting

My progress to date (20090127):
1 Turn off the gas supply to the oven
2 Turn off the electricity supply
3 Remove the oven linings
4 Remove the storage drawer
5 Remove the three screws holding on the bottom trim and the trim
6 Crank up the front roller
7 Pull out the oven carefully making sure the gas hose and electrical lead are long enough and not caught
8 Working from the rear of the Rangemaster, for the right-hand oven, remove the four screws on the corners of the large cover plate at the back of the oven about half way down on the left-hand side as viewed from the back.
9 Remove the cover plate.
10 Go to the front of the oven. Above the burner assembly, towards the left is a thin metal rod running front to back. This is held in place by a clip at the back and by the hole in the metal frame at the front. Remove the metal clip at the back using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Retain the clip.
11 This should release the metal rod (flame sensing device) and you should be able to push it through the hole and out at the back. It is attached to a long copper wire.
12 Go to the back of the range. You should be able to work the wire back through the hole in the rear metal plate and up to the gas valve. The wire is held in place at the gas valve by a bent clip on the rear right. Carefully bend this clip back towards the oven to release the wire.
13 The wire goes down under the gas valve and to a threded bolt end into the bottom of the gas valve ad the bolt is held in place using a locking nut.
14 Remove the locking nut using a small spanner. The threded bolt should now turn, with the aid of long-nosed pliers.
15 The next trick is to remove this threaded bolt on the end of the copper wire and I have not figured out how to do that. It will unscrew a good way but becomes tight and will not come out, as though something inside the valve is holding it in place. Could it be that the flame sensing device has to be removed and inserted from inside the gas valve? If so, what a daft piece of engineering this is.
16 HELP.