How can I reset my Arlec Remote Controlled Power Outlet Model RC210

If the LCD display of your Arlec Digital Time Switch PC787 remains blank even though the red LED confirms that the device is powered on, there could be a few possible causes:

1. Battery issue: If the device is battery-powered, check to ensure that the batteries are inserted correctly and still have enough power. If the batteries are low, replace them with fresh ones.
2. Power failure: Check to ensure that the device is plugged into a working power outlet and receiving adequate power. Try plugging the device into a different power outlet to see if the problem is with the outlet.
3. Display failure: If the device is receiving power but still remains blank, the LCD display may have failed. This issue would require a replacement of the display.
4. Firmware issue: The device's firmware may have become corrupted. It can happen if there is a power failure while the device is in operation or if it has been exposed to a power surge. Try to reset the device by unplugging it and plugging it back in after a minute.
5. Internal component failure: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, the problem may be with an internal component of the device, such as a circuit board or a processor. It would require repair by a professional technician.

Locate your circuit panel, and check your fuses/circuit breakers.
Maybe breaker tripped?
To reset, remember: All the way to OFF position first, then flip towards ON.

Q1. How to set on / off times?
A1. Shift the red actuator pin to the desired on time
shift the black actuator pin to the desired off time.
Q2. What is the shortest time interval?
A2. 15 minutes.
Q3. Maximum switching times?
A3. One "on" and one "off" setting.
Q4. Can you override?
A4. Yes, use the override switch.

Note: If the main power is turned off the timer will need to be reset.

To set the timer to the current time you will need to turn the dial in a clockwise direction until the smaller arrow (Line) on the front face is pointing to the current time.

Regards,
Arlec Customer Service
+61 3 9982 5111

GFCI's have 4 terminals. 2 marked Load, 2 marked Line. The black and white wires from the power supply MUST be connected to the LINE terminals. The load terminals is where you connect the outgoing circuit (i.e. plug, light etc). Anything connected to the load terminals will be controlled by the GFCI, so when it trips everything on that circuit will go off until you rest it. The other light/switch cannot be connected to the GFI if you want the switch to control it separately.

Add a comment and include timer brand and model, or describe timer in detail.
Is timer plugged into outlet? Or harwired?
Does outlet have power?
Is circuit breaker ON?
Is this new timer, or old timer that stopped working?
Reset timer.
Change battery?
What load is being controlled by timer?

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Try resetting the TV by disconnecting it from the mains outlet for 1/2 hour, then connect to the main outlet and switch on the TV.

Hello

Check the Power Cord

Verify that the power cord is properly connected the outlet; the plug might have been removed to make way for another appliance. Do not connect the microwave to an outlet via an extension cord or plug adapter; the oven must be directly connected to an outlet.
Switch the Outlet on

Turn the outlet on, if possible, using the switch on the wall behind the counter or on the plug itself. Some microwaves have a separate power switch that must be in the correct position before you can begin cooking.
Reset the Oven

Unplug the oven, wait a few seconds and reconnect the power. A power surge could have temporarily rendered the oven inoperable. The oven should start up as normal when you connect the plug to the outlet.
Check the Fuses and Breakers

See that the fuse or breaker protecting the oven's circuit is still active. Replace the fuse if it has blown, or reset the breaker to restore power to the oven. Stop using the microwave if it repeatedly blows fuses or trips breakers.

I'm assuming that you are powering the TV off with the remote, not by shutting off a device (such as a home theater system that it is plugged into) and having it disconnect the power from the cord. if this is how it is shut off, that will be your problem.

Likewise, you may have plugged the TV into an outlet that is operated by a wall switch. These are typically found in rooms that do not have an overhead light, and are designed to control a table lamp. Usually, the receptacle will have one outlet that is on all the time, and the other controlled by a wall switch. Check to make sure that the outlet that the TV is plugged into remains on all the time - regardless of the position of any wall switches.

The solution to both of the above issues is to plug the TV into an outlet that is on all the time. The interruption of household power to the TV is most likely causing the memory loss of the settings in the TV.

The other possibility may be the way you are shutting off the TV each night. Some TVs have an on / off function that works with the remote, but only if the standby power is on. If the standby power is off, the remote will not be able turn the TV on. Some manufacturers use different colored indicating lamps for Off, Standby On and TV On.

Without knowing your brand and model TV, I can't go deeper than that. You'll need to consult your TV manual to see if and how your TV works - or provide the brand and model info so we can see if we can find a solution if none of the above works for you. I hope this helps & good luck.

I am not an expert but I have two of the remote controlled 8000 BTU units and one of the 12000 BTU units like this one.

I have found that the remote controlled Whirlpool units that used this type of electronics sometime had a problem with cold solder joints on the motor control board. This is the board that has the relays that control the fan speed and compressor. Check for cold solder joints on all connections that have large diameter wire. These connections apparently did not get hot enough to properly flow the solder on the large diameter wire.

Providing the existing switch outlet iscontrolled by a 30amp circuit fuse or trip, then there is no problem connecting the 2 appliances to the same switch.
If on the other hand, it is controlled by a 13 amp breaker, then you cannot connect both appliances to this, you would have to use 2 seperate sockets.
Hope this clarifys your question.