SOURCE: removing top of waffle maker to clean it
The other night my wife had the same issue. My thought had always been to wipe it down using a wet cloth with simply hot water and rely on the extreme heat of using it to sterilize it. My wife decided instead to disassemble it. The problem is that it is not made to disassemble and she bent some parts and broke others and stripped out screw heads. It is clean now, but can not be reassembled without extracting stripped screws and replacing some parts. My advice to you is - don't try to disassemble it. The factory went to great lengths to ensure that you don't. Instead use a soft cloth dampened (not dripping wet) with the hottest water you can.
SOURCE: Waring Pro Waffle maker
Just spray the grids before each use with something like Pam, or put a thin coat of oil on them. I found it's better to spray before each waffle so it won't stick.
SOURCE: Waring pro waffle maker
There are wires that are exposed because of poor wires that seem to crack under heat or oil or both I am calling the factory now that I have opened it up and found a FIRE HAZARD inside
SOURCE: Will not heat.
There is a thermal fuse inside the bottom half of the unit, enclosed in a white insulating sleeve. This appears to be the weak part of the circuit. A replacement can be found here on Amazon.com.
SOURCE: Waring Waffle Maker no heat
Remove 4 Black Phillips Screws 2 on the front near the handle that flips Use a Good fitting Screwdriver These screws have a thread locker on them. They will strip the heads out if proper care is not used when removing them.Then remove the two screws at the rear of the Iron Just rear of the cooking surface. This will remove the chrome cover on the bottom of the cooking surface exposing the wiring. The thermal fuse is located under a section of insulation under a clamp held in by another Phillips screw.Do not cut or Damage the insulation. Gently pull it back exposing the fuse. After replacing the fuse, insulation ,Clamp and screws check to be sure the iron heats and cycles on and off and the ready light works properly. If it does not cycle the new fuse will blow . Good luck
(http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=thermal%20fuse&origkw=thermal%20fuse&sr=1) got the 228 dgree C. I **** insulation and removed. I then cut black wire at connection at each side. I then placed new fuse in line and crimped small connectors on each side. Placed insulation back on and taped up. Screwed back together and it worked fine. Fuse cost $1.69. To think I almost tossed it.
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