Question about Braun WK600 Cordless Electric Kettle

1 Answer

Red light flickers, goes off, no heat

My WK600 is almost 3 years old and has been great, until recently. For a few days, the red heating light would flicker and then stay on, and the water would boil. Now it flickers very briefly and goes off, and there is no heat. If I rock the on-off switch, sometimes it will flicker on again, but mostly it stays off. Any ideas?

Rita, North Carolina, USA

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  • 2 more comments 
  • tigermagic Dec 28, 2007

    I have the same problem...about three years old. If I cock it to one side it works, sometimes, but most of the time it doesn't go on or goes on then goes off right away.

  • consumer 3 Jan 26, 2008

    same problem. It is not very old, maybe a year.

  • teepot Nov 12, 2008

    have the same problem, my kettle is less than 1yr old. Red light flickers sometimes will come on most of the time wont work

  • johnynek Jan 26, 2009

    I have the same problem. I believe that the electric connection between the base and the kettle is weak. I think that is due to the mechanical effect of putting the kettle onto the base repeatedly. I called Braun, the only thing they suggested is that the unit could be returned if done within one year.

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I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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