Drain pump won't stop

please follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Heating Element

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element might have burned out. The heating element heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.


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Heating Element Assembly

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element assembly might have burned out. The heating element assembly heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element assembly can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.


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Check Fault Codes

If the display lights are flashing and there is an error code in the display window, check the wiring diagram and tech sheet in the dishwasher that will provide information on the fault.

Drain Pump

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the drain pump might not be working properly. For two-wire drain pump motors check them for continuity using an Ohm meter. If it's defective You'll need to replace it. Drain pumps are not repairable.


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Touchpad and Control Panel

If the lights are flashing on the display the entire touchpad and control panel assembly might be defective. If the display works but the dishwasher functions are all out of synch, or some of the buttons don't respond properly the entire touchpad and control panel might need to be replaced.


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Touchpad

If the display lights are flickering for no reason, the touchpad might need to be replaced. Sometimes when the touchpad is defective the display lights are flashing randomly.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Belt, Water Pump Although few dishwashers have a water pump belt, if the dishwasher won't drain there might be a worn or broken water pump belt. After removing the lower kick panel the motor can be seen in the front, the water pump belt is on the bottom of the motor.

Drain Pump If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain pump might be defective. Test the pump motor with an Ohm meter. Drain pumps are not repairable, if it's defective it will need to be replaced.

Drain Impeller The drain impeller is attached to the pump and pushes the water out of the dishwasher, through the drain tube and into the garbage disposer or drain line. If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain impeller might be broken or worn out. Replace both the impeller and seal at the same time.

Drain Solenoid Kit If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain solenoid kit might need to be replaced. The drain solenoid is an actuator that opens a flap to allow the water to drain.
Drain Valve The drain valve can get clogged with debris and should be cleaned out if the dishwasher won't drain. If it seems clear of debris but won't actuate, it will need to be replaced. The drain valve is not repairable.
Pump and Motor Assembly If the dishwasher won't drain, the pump and motor assembly might be defective. If the motor runs during the drain cycle, check for a blockage in the drain line. If the motor won't run during the drain cycle or if it just hums when it should be running, the pump and motor assembly might need to be replaced.

Clogged or Improperly Installed Garbage Disposer If the dishwasher won't drain and the garbage disposer was installed recently, the installer might have forgotten to knock out the drain plug from this disposer. All garbage disposers are sold with a solid plug in the drain tube for situations where a dishwasher isn't connected. However, if the dishwasher is connected, the plug will need to be removed. If the disposer wasn't replaced recently, remove the dishwasher drain hose from the disposer and clean out both the fitting on the disposer and the end of the drain hose. These are the most common places to find an obstruction if the dishwasher won't drain.

Drain Hose If the dishwasher won't drain the drain hose might be clogged. Remove the drain hose from both the dishwasher and the sink drain to clean it out. The most common place for an obstruction is at the garbage disposer.

Check Valve If the dishwasher won't drain the check valve might be stuck closed. The check valve is a small plastic device which prevents water from returning to the dishwasher after it has drained. If the valve gets stuck closed, it will prevent the water from draining. The check valve is the device that the drain hose is attached to on the dishwasher
Check Ball If the dishwasher won't drain the check ball might be stuck. The check ball is a small plastic ball in the check valve which prevents water from returning to the dishwasher after it has drained. If the ball gets stuck, it will prevent the water from draining also. The check valve is the device that the drain hose is attached to on the dishwasher.

Hello Jo, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post, I suspect you mean the drain pump is running as is common for Asko built machines such as your Viking with this scenario/error. I have good news...It is likely nothing very serious, but the "resolve" requires some investigation on your part.

What this usually means is the control has indicated a overfill. All the indicators flashing is the error code for overfill/drain error.

**before proceeding turn the dishwasher power off via the home breaker panel, or unplug it from the wall if that is possible...most are hard wired to the home electrical...safety first**

The first thing to do is remove the toe panel/kick plate and inspect the base for water. There will likely be water present.

With the aid of a sponge, towels, or a wet-dry shop vacuum, absorb the water from the base, that should restore normal operation...it should be known that if you leave the unit for a few days, the water in the base will evaporate hence appearing as everything is fine again...if any other problem/leak does exist it will return.

If the unit works fine after resetting the power/breaker and soaking up any water present, it can likely be chalked up to a drain back-up or obstruction in the drain hose or pump... (it could mean a faulty drain pump or a inlet water valve, so you'll need to pay close attention the next few times you run it)

**The float is primarily the last ditch safety to prevent disaster in the event of a overflow, back-flow, or leak underneath the unit activates the pump-out non-stop letting you know to service or call for service to the unit**

Hope this helps move you forward, or even better resolves the issue altogether. Let me know of course, I will help you move further if necessary. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
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The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

• Open door, push and hold Delicate/Econo button, then turn the dishwasher on while holding Delicate/Econo button.
• Release Delicate/Econo button.
• If module beeps, then end of cycle tone is on. PressDelicate/Econo button to disable tone.
• If module doesn’t beep after button is pressed, then tone is disabled.
• Turn off dishwasher to save selection.

Solved by draining water from bottom pan.

Depress start button till start light goes out. Close door, drain pump should run for a while. Wait for end of program, rer-try a new program start. This process is re-setting memory.If this fails to sort problem then start checking components, ie: fill valve water on? heaters open circuit/down to earth, drain pump, is it emptying, wash pump.