I have a double wall oven that has an error f08. I've turned it off an on it worked for 30 seconds and went back to error f08. Do I need to call in electrician to replace the data cable. Cheers

SOURCE: Problems with Jenn-Air Electric Double-Wall Oven

Try changing the clock assembly --
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=221346&ModelNum=WW30430P&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=51238&Position=1&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=1

here is a link to the diagram.

PS120923
Electronic Clock Assembly (Series 10)
Help with series numbers

here is the part number.

SOURCE: Maytag "Magic Chef" electric double wall oven

check the high limit swtich. You need to remove the back of unit to find it. replaced it part# is:w10175596

SOURCE: dacor cps130 wall oven f1 error

According to the manual, this is an element relay circuit failure. Call the tech.

Ron Coons

• 2651 Answers
• Posted on Nov 13, 2008

SOURCE: Replacing a 30 inch wall oven -

a number of solutions for your problem a little smaller better then a little larger, iv seen depending on surrounding cabinetry, either wood fill strips, lexan(plastic) strip added as a filler. depending on what the installation guide recommends for opening , that is all that would be required what you fill if with will be a purely asthetic choice

SOURCE: whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.