"I get a "Door" message when I try to start it. The Message only shows when I try to set the time with one of the function buttons, like and dosent work
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When the timer, clock etc didn't light up my oven stopped working. Replaced the clock display unit and all is now fine. A simple switch over just remove one wire at a time and place it on the new unit, the only difficult part was gaining access to remove the display unit itself.
Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.
You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.
On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.
Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.
The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
Keyboard Failure
Error Code: F 2
Component:
To localize the fault - disconnect the switches from the display unit. If the fault is gone - replace the switches.
Touch buttons - replace control panel assy
Tactile switches - replace control panel assy
if the unit is tripping fuses then there is either an active or neutral fault in most cases the fault is a ground fault cased by a burned out heating element check the elements for cracks and burn marks if you find one replace the element
best of luck to you
p.s regardles of the fault in this case its not expensive to repair its a common and east fault to have repaired
Gas does not ignite. No spark. No Ignition light is not ON.
1. Shorted electrode on igniter/flame sense.
2. Igniter cable (high voltage) OPEN.
3. Heat relay malfunction.
4. Centrifugal switch in blower motor inoperative.
5. Transformer inoperative.
6. High limit thermostat open.
7. Interconnecting wiring malfunction.
8. Ignition module malfunction.
Sparks but gas does not ignite.
1. Gas solenoid valve off or inoperative.
2. Manual gas valve closed.
3. Gas supply OFF or insufficient gas pressure.
4. Inerconnecting wiring malfunction.
5. Igniton module malfunction.
The list of problems is as long as the one Obama inherited when he took over. Good news though, the most expensive part works, the blower motor! The pilot is established which rules out a gas issue. The two most common problems are, either the temp controller or the infinate switch is bad. Your unit has one or the other but, not both. Controller has several wires leading to it & has a green or tan circuit board on it, infinate switch is a small black or white 2 inch square box with 4 or 5 wires leading to it. Each one of these are mounted thru the front control panel & both have knobs. Temp board around $180, infinate switch around $45. As far as the schematic is concerned, Vulcan was bought by Hobart & they DO NOT give out schematics or service manuals.
It sounds like somebody bypassed the flame sensor on the oven, no oven should ever release gas for more than a couple seconds if there is no ignition. This oven is very dangerous and should not be used until it is looked at by a professional.
If you smell gas, then check the ignitor circut first. A spark ignitor usually has a grey or orange wire, leading from the ignitor to the input circut. Try testing the terminal where the ignitor is powered, when the unit should be calling for ignition. If there is ample voltage to the ignitor, but it will not spark, shut off the power and the gas to the appliance and remove the pilot assembly. The ignitor will either unclamp or unscrew from it, and can now be replaced. Check to see if it is properly spaced (which it should be if undisturbed), or if any deposits are on it. Sometimes they can be properly spaced or cleaned to work once again.
- Ian Miller
if you remove the 2 screws on the right and left bottom plate and open the door and youll see 2 screws that panel will come off turn the oven on and you should see 2 burners on both sides and they should ignite.if they do and go right out you could have 2 problems.when the burners light they hit a probe called a flame sense.this probe plugs into a heat board and if the board doesnt sense the flame you will get a red no ignition light.clean the probes that sit right on the burners with sandpaper and see what happens,if that doesnt work if the unit has pilots clean the pilot orfice and if that doesnt work the heat board may be bad.how old is the unit?
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