Fixing homelite csp4016 needs oil pump do I need to split casings and remove engineto fit oil pump tks e

Chainsaw Oil Pump Replacement - Homelite ... - YouTube

? 5:57
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dj0Voh3TTM
Jan 21, 2014 - Uploaded by RepairClinic.com
The most common reason for replacing the oil pump is ... ...Chainsaw Oil Pump Replacement - Homelite Chainsaw Repair (part #309514001) ... spark plug wrench, cord, clutch removaltool, adjustable wrench, needle-nose pliers ... The chainsaw guy shop talk Repair Homelite 150 chainsaw Auto Oiler ...

How to Repair a Homelite XL Chainsaw Oiler - Home Guides

homeguides.sfgate.com > Real Estate Advice > Basic Real Estate Advice

The Homelite XL chain saw is designed to use one tank of oil per each tank of fuel. Fill the oil ... Push the guide bar toward the saw, and remove it and the chain. Clean the ... Automatic Oiler and Oil Line Replacement ..... My Ridevisit'Cars-My

The most probable cause is the oil line inside the saw from the oil tank to the pump or oil flow being blocked at the rubber ball that you can see when you remove the chain, bar and plate before it has a chance to get to the bar. in my case i had the oil line itself blocked from dust getting into the oil tank over time

If you are talking about the saw not oiling the bar, it's due either to a bad oil pump--a small gear pump or blocked oil passageways. Cleaning the passageways is easier than fixing the pump, so I'd start there.

The fuel pump is inside the tank and is accessed from the top of the tank, so you'll have to remove the tank.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the filler cap.
Drain the fuel from the tank(retighten drain plug to 20Nm - 14lbf after draining)
Remove the right hand rear fender liner.
Remove the tank under cover fixing bolts and remove the cover.
Disconnect tank wiring.
Disconnect the piping at the tank(Fuel filler, evap hoses, air breather hose).
The fuel supply and release lines are quick release. Supply has 2 tabs that need to be squeezed before the pipe can be pulled apart. The return line has a square block that needs to be pressed to split the line. The fuel lines may have residual pressure inside so cover with a cloth when releasing so you dont end up with fuel in your eyes. When refitting lightly coat with oil to aid assembly.
You can now undo the tank fixing bolts and remove the tank.(When refitting tighten to 36 Nm - 27lbf)
Once you have the tank on the ground you can remove the pump by undoing the fixing screws and withdrawing it from the tank.

It should be part of the lower plastic casting which contains both tanks that are not removable. If it is cracked, replacement is the only permanent fix. Make sure the oil hose coming from it to the pump is not decayed or split. The entire engine needs to be removed from the base to replace the tanks. Hope this helps!

Removal & Installation 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engine To Remove:

1. Remove the engine sight shield.
   
   
2. Disconnect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector.
   
   
3. Using J41712 sensor socket or equivalent, remove the oil pressure sensor.

To Install:

1. Apply sealant GM P/N 12346004, (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent, to the threads of the sensor.
2. Using J41712 sensor socket or equivalent, install the oil pressure sensor. Tighten the sensor to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
3. Connect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector.
4. Install the engine sight shield.

8.1L Engine To Remove:

1. Remove the engine appearance cover.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the oil pressure sensor.
3. Use a special socket such as J 41712 to remove the sensor.

To Install:

1. If installing the old sensor, apply sealant GM P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent, to the threads of the sensor.
2. Using J 41712 or equivalent, install the sensor. Tighten the sensor to 22 lb ft (30 Nm).
3. Connect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector.
4. Install the engine appearance cover.

Remove the bar and chain, then clean the engine side case where the bar fits as well as the two small oil channels in the drive end of the bar that go out to the chain groove on each side. Start the engine with bar/chain off of the machine and look for oil oozing out of the side port when running at speed. If ok, reassemble the bar/chain, adjust the chain up to the lower edge of the bar, but free enough to turn it by hand. The teeth cut toward you on the bottom run. If you got no oil coming out of the side port, then you will need to check the oil pump, lines, and tank filter. This saw may have an oil volume adjustment screw near the lower run of chain, but in the case back or maybe underneath the case. Try turning it CCW to increase oil flow. Hope this helps!

Hi Fred

In short.... NO... there should not be oil in the alternator. You will have a failing seal on the output shaft from engine to the alternator. These seals can sometimes be changed without splitting the crankcases, but sometimes not. You will need a puller to get the rotor off and access to the shaft/seal to see what is going on.

This may be a job for a repair shop if you have not done this sort of work before. There are some tools required, and the engine will need to be removed from the frame if a new seal cannot be fitted without splitting the crank case.

regards
robotek

25to 1 and .025 thou

Here is a website where a manual for you outboard may be purchased.  Outboard Marine went out of buisness in 2000 and thus no parts of origial manufacture are support is available . Therir are secondary markets .    THe Lower case splits in half and their is a seal around the prop shiftm which is pressed in. The seal between the cases are cut o-rings which are placed and glued into place with gasket seal.
The water pump is located where the case splits a little bit higher. You must open the little port on the side and take out one of the screws to the connecting shift linkage to split the case. After splitting the case the drive shaft and water pickup tube(s) wil come out of the powwer head or the tubs may stick into the power head which is ok. Place the lower skag into a vice and remove the 4 or 5 screws to the water pump housing. Remove and replace impellor and impellor plate if available. If part(pieces) of the rubber impellor is missing flush out the tubes and the power head to remove them.   When reinstalling the lower unit use a flash light to make sure that the tubes return  to the proper place in the power head and the shift lever is resecured. If you need more assistance, just write back. I was an Outboard motor mechanic for five years about the time of your motor.