Amp lights up (display) and then fails to switch

BEFORE ASSUMING THE LID SWITCH NEEDS REPLACEMENT TEST WITH A METER, BUT FIRST TRY TO RESET CONTROL BOARD EVEN RUNNING A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WILL REVEAL THE SOURCE OF THE ERROR.. 1. Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off; or with only the Clothes Clean or Done indicator on). 2. Select any one button (except POWER, START, STOP, and PAUSE/CANCEL) and follow the steps below, using the same button: a. Press/hold 3 seconds. b. Release for 3 seconds. c. Press/hold 3 seconds. d. Release for 3 seconds. e. Press/hold 3 seconds. ? If this test mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for 5 seconds with 88 showing in the Estimated Time Remaining two-digit display. ? If indicators do not display as described above, the press/hold/release procedure above may not have been performed within the time frame necessary for successful entry. Repeat step 2 to ensure this was not the cause. If still unsuccessful, see Diagnostic: Unsuccessful Entry, at right. 3. The test sequence continues by checking for saved fault codes: ? If there are saved fault codes, see Diagnostic: Saved Fault Codes, page 2. ? If there are no saved fault codes, all indicators on the console will momentarily turn off, then turn back on with 88 displayed. After 5 seconds, the Automatic test, below, begins.

http://www.applianceaid.com/pdf/Whirlpool-Cabrio-Waher-WTW6600SB3-Tech-Sheet-W10026634.pdf

TEST #8 Lid Lock Perform the following checks if washer fails to lock (or unlock). 1. Perform Manual: Lid Switch and Manual: Lid Lock tests on page 2. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, at right. 3. Visually check that the P12 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. ? If visual check passes, go to step 4. ? If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Check the lid lock motor winding and switches by removing P12 from the machine/motor control and checking the resistance values shown in the following Lid Lock Resistance table:
TO RESET TURN KNOB 1 FULL TURN COUNTERCLOCKWISE, THEN 3 TURNS OR CLICKS CLOCKWISE, 1 TURN COUNTER CLOCKWISE, 1 MORE TURN CLOCKWISE, THEN HIT START , ALL THE INDICATOR LIGHTS SHOULD THEN LIGHT UP, THEN UNPLUG FROM THE WALL FOR 5 MINUTES THEN PLUG BACK IN , IT SHOULD BE RESET AFTER PLUGGING BACK IN

try unplugging the power cable from the wall for a few seconds & plug it back on then turn the power on again.

ok th p6000. complete range when they were made had to be recalled as they put the copper expansion pipes ran across the gpu & cpu hence a massive overheat problem. they put copper shims over the cpu & gpu but this worked for a short time but it was inevitable and both units ended up being cooked i had this problem with mine. so if you have tried external monitor with no images it would sound or more likely to be the gpu cooked sorry for the bad news.

Sounds like the key switch has failed. Either the switch or the linkage between the switch and the lock cylinder.

do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Please try to attach an external monitor & see if you can get any display on it. If you can get display on an external monitor, then the root cause of the problems you have might be either a failing LCD backlight or a failing inverter board.

Please refer to the following article for more details on how to diagnose & troubleshoot LCD backlight & inverter board issues:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r6430776-troubleshooting_laptop_power_failures

Hello Gary, welcome to Fixya. Based on the info you've provided, the dishwasher is indicating a error during the "fill" stage, hence the "F" being displayed on the shu43 series machines. Here's how to perform a test or diagnostic. Make sure the power button is in the off position ( open & closing of the door will activate the "auto shut off" ). Once certain it is "off" press and hold both the regular button and rinse & hold button, then turn the unit "on" while continuing to depress those 2 buttons. Initially, control module version # will display ( i.e. "20" = version "0" without jumper...not important for this ). When the buttons are now released, the lights above them will flash. To start testing, press both the "regular wash" and "rinse & hold" a second time. Let the test follow through. Whentestimg has ended, the display will show an error using codes as follows. "0" = no error. "1" = aqua sensor fault. "2" = heating fault. "4" = filling fault. and finally, "8" = NTC ( temperature sensor ) fault. The "F" code will not appear in test mode, only during wash. If you have a failed level switch the test will display "4" and will continually fill and drain and test won't complete, until you press the "on/off" button. If the test complete's without and error or won't fill, replace the water valve. Part # 1105846 at "repairclinic.com" or you can check locally by your model number & serial number. Let me know if I can assist you further. Hope you found this helpful and if so please allow for a positive rating. Good luck. Macmarkus :)

Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.

Here you go. Under hood fuse block
Ign. Fuse E
and
ipc/dic
both fuses are 10 amp
I hope this helps. Take care.