Okay...I suspect the Central Control Unit (CCU) may be causing your problem. The door latch gets its control voltages from the CCU. This isn't an exact science, but typically when the door latch fails, the error is detected by the CCU and gets displayed on the front panel. My logic in this case is if the CCU were defective and does not lock the door latch, it may or may not generate an error code. As models differ in design, I do not have the connector pins memorized. There should be a tech sheet behind the lower kick panel directly below the door that you can refer to for the wiring diagram and troubleshooting steps. If the sheet is not behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. You can remove the panel by removing the scews under the bottom of the front edge. With the screws removed, the panel drops down, then off.
NOTE: Propping the front feet up can give you better access to the panel screws. A 2 x 4 works well for this.
Start by removing the connectors that control the door latch and check for any signs of corrosion, broken wires, or loose plugs. Check for continuity between the connectors at CCU to the door latch (it could be something as simple as a bad interconnecting wire). If its not something obvious, the troubleshooting steps provided in the tech sheet will give you the specifics on what to do.
PS I don't think the person that sold this to you was trying to deceive you. I've worked on this model numerous times and sometimes these problems happen for no apparent reason (especially CCU failures). I personally own a front loader similar to yours and they ARE good washing machines and (in the case of mine) has been very reliable. If it DOES turn out to be a CCU problem, appliancepartspros.com usually has the best price for a replacement. You may also check searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com.
Let me know if I can be of any more assistance.
I admire your diligence with troubleshooting, but it all leads back to what I said at the beginning of your efforts in futility. I think the CCU is bad. I know you may not like the idea of unstacking these units to get to it, but if the washer will not enter diagnostics, the CCU is probably defective. The fact that it does not get past the first segment, and does not display any error codes, leads me to this conclusion. I wish I had more ideas for you, and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I think the brains of the washer might be shot. Replacements can be purchased on line at any of the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com
Some of these problems cannot be predicted and they "just happen". It still may be worth your while to use the tech sheet and check some of the control voltages and/or unplug and reset the connectors on the CCU. At least, if you get to that point and try these options, you will know if the CCU has to be replaced and you'll have the unit ready to install a new one. You also may discover, you don't need any replacement parts. Check these web sites out, because prices vary. Let me know if you still have questions.
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Try opening and closing the door again,or unplug and see if it resets -mike
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jsrock
Thanks for the interest. Not sure how to post your clarification request on the Duet. Held the start for many seconds. As nothing happened and no error code, assume the door latch is the problem. Has seen many problems with faulty connectors and the behavior mirrors what is happening to me. Will pull part of the boot and take out the latch connector and see if it needs to be reconnected. Will do that tomorrow. Thanks for the interest.
Jeff
jsrock-
I will do that to reset it. It was not plugged in for over a week and we just set it up. But I will try that. In the absence of an error code, I am suspicious of the loose connection to the door latch mechanism I have read about. Will keep you posted and again thanks for the insight.
Jeff
jsrock-
You can hold the start button until the cows come home and the door lock does not engage. I took out the mechanism and reconnected everything. Had the unit off for over a half hour. Same thing, no error message as I do not think the washer senses that anything is ready to operate. I took the lock out and pushed it into the door "bang" the thing mechanically locked and it was a pain to figure out how to get them apart. But reinstalled it, and there was no engagement. What should the locking mechanism look like before the door closes? Is it possible it is not in a "pre-engagement" position so that when the door closes and I press start, it is not in a position to close? Owners swears it worked when she last used it. Any thoughts are appreciated. Wounder if the connectors are just bad or there is nothing going to the wires to signal the lock to engage? Use a volmeter on the connectors? Thanks for any help.
Jeff
jsrock-
Tried what you said but cannot easily get to the control unit as it is stacked with a dryer. Further info-tried to run the diagnostic test. Close door/drain spin setting/no spin and hit rinse hold 4 times. Is supposed to enter diagnostic mode showing C:00. Prior to hitting rinse hold the washer shows 02 as in time left I assume. After the forth press it blinks but stays on 02 and does not enter the C:00 diagnostic mode.Can't get the door to lock...Jeff
I know you just hooked it up and it ran fine before, but you may also try resetting the Central Control Unit (CCU) by unplugging the washer for at least 30 minutes. This can commonly "cure" momentary program glitches (if that is the case with your washer). If the door latch errors out, you typically get an "Fdl" or "Fdu" error code. If this is a newer model Duet, the error code will show up as an "F22". Let me know what you find, and if any error codes finally display...
Did you push and hold the start button until the door lock engages? This isn't a simple push to start button. You have to push and hold. It typically takes 2 to 3 seconds.
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