How do I remove door on KitchenAid microwave YKHMS2050SS-2 in order to replace the CTRL-ELEC control card inside the door?

Probably the control board would be accessed from inside the oven

I'm sorry to say that it's most likely the magnetron that's shorted out (the high voltage device that produces microwaves). It's usually the case with ovens this old that a compatible replacement won't be available.

There's also the fact that your oven is likely way past it's 'end-of-life' date so even if you could find a replacement, other components will begin to fail as more time passes.

In short, save yourself the money, time, and frustration with a new unit. Good luck!

You must presume Tech knows what he is talking about , but get 2nd opinion, then you will be sure.

Hi,

Unplug the oven for few minutes, say 30 minutes and then turn it on.If the problem persists, you need to replace keypad. This is a quite easy repair. You would take the grill off along the top over the door. Once off you should see the screws holding the control panel in place. Remove these screws and remove the control panel. You will now have access to replace the part. Please be aware that the unit stores lethal voltage even when unplugged.

F2 means the touch pad has failed, the manufacturer recommends you replace the touch pad and if this fails to clear the problem replace the control board.The manufacturer recommends this but the problem normally relates to the touch pad. The control board sits just behind the touch pad so is accessible by removing the control panel.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

What usually breaks is the door open lever, but it may also be that the rear side of the door open button has worn down too far to work.

On a counter top model, the outer cover will need to be removed to diagnose and repair this. On an over-the-range model, usually only the control panel needs to be removed.

Once it is apart, you'll be able to see how the door open button would press against the door open lever, which would then lift up against the door latch heads (hook-like projections on the door) and the door should open.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

See:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws located on the inside of the door (note hold door inplace, since it is heavy and will fall out after screws removed). Unscrew screws located on bottom of plastic retainer (2 each) Remove tension spring. Note 2 are included right and left. Note color of spring on end, different springs for different door types, stainless, black,beige or white. Replace all in reverse order.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

If the door switch is not properly activated when the door is closed, the controller thinks the door is not shut and it will not start.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it has a hood thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.