(1) The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, i recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing.
SOURCE: washer make a clicking noise
Zoobs, you could have something stuck under the agitator. The agitator will pull straight off. Grip it on each side and pull up hard, but don't hit yourself in the face. If that don't work, try slipping a belt under it and pull. Check for something caught under it. Another possibility could be the nylon suspension rod socket supports in the back. They will make a noise during agitation if they are dry. Put a little 3 in 1 oil to quite them down. Take the front panel off and check the pulley and belt, see if anything is out of whack. I also often find the motor support hitting the bottom panel during agitation making noise. Take the front panel off and observe during agitation. See if the support is striking the bottom. If so, just bend the bottom panel down. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: Spin Cycle/Machine makes noise and moves
You can't tight up the tub. You should replace the damper pads that located beneath main support housing on base's machine. Goog luck !
SOURCE: washing machine making a clicking noise.
The problem most likely is something stuck in the water port of the drain pump. My machiine would not empty once and I found a 12 penny nail that had made its way from the drum though the drain line to the the pump, where it was wedged against the impellers that spins to draw out the water through the pump. The pump is located in the front right bottom of the machine and accessible by reoving the lower front panel, It is held in place by 4 small screws and is connected to the drain lines. Disconnect the plug for the outlet, then disconnect the power connection from the pump. Disconnect the drainlines after removing as much water possible from the drum as the water will come out of these liines when you remove them. Remove the pump, open the cover to see the impeller and hopefully the bobby pin, nail, screw, or whatever else is stuck there will be visible and easily removed. Put the pump cover back on, replace the drain lines and screws, and reconnect the power connection to the pump. Then do a better job checking your pockets.
SOURCE: washing machine drains, wont spin, making clicking
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
If
the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the
washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is
inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you
have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to
the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
The
motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a
small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber
and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the
transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails.
You may need to replace it.
A
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
The
drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor.
For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and
draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one
direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you
need to replace the entire motor.
The
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
SOURCE: started making loud "clicking" noise
Blocked pump, open flap bottom right, drain off excess water manually and remove pump filter. Make sure you get right down and have a look in at the impellor and give it a turn to make sure its free to rotate. You'll probably find a coin, button etc that is catching the pump impellor. When you start a cycle the pump engages for a few seconds and then the w/m takes in water, so if something is stopping the impellor rotating the w/m will not start.
Best of luck
Hello - Does the unit make a humming noise? If so, either the drainage hose/pump is clogged and needs to be cleaned, or you have another issue with the door lock assembly or the timer and control board not communicating correctly.
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