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Norman Fegel Posted on Jan 07, 2017

I have a GE Radiant Cooktop Model PP912KM3CC. One burner has quit heating up and I need to troubleshoot the problem. Do I need to lift the unit out of the countertop to troubleshoot and repair it?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 59 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 19, 2008

SOURCE: ge jp340 radiant cooktop

Hello
I have the manual for your stove in PDF format, I will gladly email it to you.
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 13, 2008

SOURCE: Inop burner on new jenn-air JEC9530 elec flat cooktop

I'm having the same problem with my jec9530. The dual burner just quit working one day. I called jennair and they sent me a replacement "custom control" for free. 6 months later it quit again. I am now considering attempting to put an infinite switch (dual), part #PS786568 in its place. It is not electronic, and it looks like it is used for the jec9536 middle back dual burner. It is only $35, even if it doesn't work like the electronic one I don't care. My wife usually only uses both burners at the same time anyway.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 29, 2009

SOURCE: Right front (large) burner indicates hot, won't work, flashes F153

I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 18, 2009

SOURCE: Broken selector switch

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Lift out cooktop, remove all machine screws holding the glass frame. Remove plastic knobs and lift glass top straight up. Make sure rubber gromits are not ripped or torn. Unscrew the small screws on the selector switch and then lift up and tilt over the small aluminum chasis holding the switches to expose the wiring connections. Pull off the wires and pull out the defective switch. Replacre switch, connect wires, re-seat switch chasis, and secure switch with screws. Carefully drop in the glasstop lining up the switch shafts and the rubber grommets. Secure the top with machine screws and drop back in the cutout.

Anonymous

  • 221 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2010

SOURCE: Have a four burner gas GE Profile cooktop. How do

The igniter module is working fine. One of the switches (which are on each valve shaft) is stuck or shorted out. Pull a wire off each one at a time to determine which one is bad. Careful! 120 volts to each wire. Also, this can happen after you spill water into the valve area, if that sounds right, let it dry out.

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How to fix GE cooktop error code F116

First, i tried turning on/off power with no luck. if you get this code you will probably just need to replace the LF burner, which is pretty easy to do. i researched and found GE OEM parts from appliance zone. info is below:

ApplianceZone.com Items
1 Stove / Oven / Range Radiant Element Lf - WB30T10080 (OEM) @ $170.67 = $170.67
Sub-Total: $170.67
Shipping: $6.95 Standard Shipping (6.95) USD
ApplianceZone.com Total: $177.62

Once i received then new burner i just replaced it and all is working fine, no error code!
First i turned off all power and removed my cooktop from my counter and unscrewed the sheet metal shroud on the bottom, only remove the screws around the perimeter of shroud closets to glass, they are small black Phillips screws, like 15 screws total. i didn't disconnect any wires from the unit to junction box, you should be able to leave all that alone if you have a long enough connection. i made the mistake of leaving the cooktop upside down when removing the metal shroud, don't do this. there are springs on posts that keep the burners tight to the glass and will fall out (if up side down). leave the cooktop right side up and just lift off the glass once you remove all screws, when lifting the glass off, there is one plug at the circuit board attached to glass that you will need to unplug to completely remove the glass and set aside. you will see the 4 burners, i took a picture of the unit with glass removed to make sure i could reference any wires when i was re-installing new burner. i unplugged all wires to LF burner and unplugged the harness from the circuit board. once i removed old burner i noticed the new burner doesn't include the 2 tabs you need. i removed them from the old burner and made sure to install them in the same location on the new burner. I than plugged in all wires and harness back into the unit and set burner on posts with springs. carefully replace glass and don't forget to plug the glass top circuit board back into the unit circuit board. re-attach metal shroud and screws, drop in and done! there are instructions to re-calibrate the new burner which is probably a good idea, i didn't and it is working just fine! good luck
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Inner burner-- front right burner - does not heat up

you have either a bad switch or a bad element. If you plan on repairing this yourself, turn off the power to the unit BEFORE removing it from countertop. A continuity tester will be needed to properly test components. Nice Saturday morning homeowner project.
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How to replace a radiant burner element wb30t10062 on a cook top not a combo, oven and cooktop

Search for my solution for a replacing the element on a JP939/JP969. That should help for similar GE models.
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Kenmore electric cooktop not working on low eat

If it was the burner element it either would work or not (no in between)
It has to be the switch


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Right front (large) burner indicates hot, won't work, flashes F153

I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.
May 21, 2009 • GE Cooktops
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Radiant cooktop blew a fuse?

Call the service tech it;s under warranty and, this model is notorious for this fault
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GE Cooktop radiant heat element problem

Sounds like you need to replace the burner control (part # WB23K5053)
Mar 02, 2009 • GE Cooktops
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Downdraft Slide-In Range

I have the radiant cooktop (i.e., glass top) version of this range. I've had this same problem since I first purchased this unit. I wondered why no one answered this question, as I check back to see from time to time. I finally contacted Jenn-Air's online support. My conversation was as follows (I'm not entirely sure that the tech support knew what she was talking about, but here you go anyway):

message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: Hi, my name is Cidalia C. How may I help you?
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: Hello!
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: I have a question regarding my "Downdraft Radiant Cooktop"
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: Thank you for contacting Jenn-Air today with your inquiry. What is your question please?
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: None of my burners can simmer-- no matter what the setting, they will boil water!
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: Is there an adjustment that can be made to attenuate the heat?
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: What is the model number of your cook top please
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: JED8430ADB
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: Thank you. In looking at your burner configuration, the smallest wattage on your unit is 1200. And, unfortunately, there is no way to get a small wattage for your burners. We apologize for the inconvenience.
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: Yes, but the dials are supposed to prevent the full 1200 watts from reaching the burner unless it's on maximum heat, correct?
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: Yes, but the burners do not get low enough to be considered simmer burners.
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: Did you have any other questions or concerns today?
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool You: I suppose not.
message.gif?p_db_name=whirlpool Cidalia C: Thank you for contacting Jenn-Air. Have a good day!
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