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Snowblowers typically dont have fuel filters. So of course the carburetor gets debris fouled and the repair shop puts in a inline filter.
The manufacturers dont like fuel filters for snowblowers because they can freeze if water is present. But I have a two strike rule. If a machine comes back more than once with debris in fuel, it gets a filter.
To check the filter (engine off and cool) disconnect the line on the carburetor side of the filter. Fuel should flow in a steady stream. If it drips, try a new filter.
If you have fuel up to the carburetor but no fuel in the cylinder (from carburetor) then likely the carburetor float is stuck. Especially if it sat for 10 months. You'll need to make sure fuel is filling the carburetor bowl. Loosen the carburetor bowl nut or remove nut and bowl. Fuel should flow steady from the inlet needle valve.
this is the proper method of operation as you describe now , if it stuck down before then that was a miss operation and should have been repaired as that was an unsafe method of operation and not what the CSA and mfg intended im sure
your hands should never be able to leave the drive or augar control and it continue to run along as if you had the handles , this would make it far to easy for you to get your hands/feet into a moving part accdentaly and hurt you
if rock is quartz or grannite use a torch to heat them up and dose it with cool water , shatters the rock into sand happend all the time in the quarry i worked at on heavy equipment , that torch idea worked everytime
Most snowblowers incorporate "shear pins" between the motor and auger. A shear pin looks similar to a nut and bolt or pin that couples the drive to the auger - but it designed to break or shear off to prevent damage to the auger or motor in the event of a jam or overload. They look like these:
Only the shear pin recommended for your particular brand and model snowblower should be used. Under no circumstances should a regular bolt or other steel pin be used instead of a shear pin. Check your manual or consult with Swisher to determine the correct shear pin for your snow blower.
This would indicate a problem on the suction side of the system. Make sure all the baskets are empty and clean. Debris stuck in the impeller will also cause this problem. You may be able to reach the impeller and clear the debris without taking the pump apart. Just make sure the pump is not going to start running while you have your fingers near the impeller.
Hello,
The most common issue with these pumps is that the impeller gets stuck from non usage or from debris getting stuck in the impeller.
Take the cover off of the pump section and make sure that the impeller is free of debris and that it will turn freely. If it turns hard you may be able to free it by working it back and forth. This may take some time to do. I'm not sure about this particular pump, but on some you can get a lubricant like WD-40 worked into the pump and motor bearing also...
If the impeller is spinning frreely and the motor still does not turn on then you have a bad motor. To replace this motor will probably cost nearly the price of a new pump. It may be better to just replace the whole pump.
Sounds like you have a broken or partially broken shear pin in the auger.Check along the auger[machine off]and see if there is what looks like a bolt anywhere along the auger shaft.If there is [and there will be] remove and inspect it and you will see why the auger is not working.Next time,never clean out a chute or auger while the engine is running,people loose limbs this way.
I will assume you are referring to the 2 stages in the front of the machine. The spiral auger rakes are the first stage, they are designed to collect the snow and feed it to the impeller. The impeller is the 2nd stage and is to throw the snow up the chute. The lower rakes in the front do nopt throw snow only collect it.
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