In the past year I have replaced the gas coils, fan, and motor. It has been working great but 2 days ago we turned it on before bed and it was still running in the morning without heat. I removed the igniter and saw it was singed and cracked so I replaced it. It then worked for a few minutes before it stopped heating again. I removed the igniter and it broke into pieces. I thought the exhaust may have been restricted and found a significant blockage, maybe 80%, in the ductwork elbow leading outside. I have since cleaned the ductwork and took the dryer apart as much as possible to clean any lint I could find. I am going to replace the igniter again and I'm hoping they burned out due to restricted exhaust flow. Does this seem reasonable or am I overlooking something else that may be the problem? I will also admit that I briefly touched the igniter element when removing it from the packaging. I will wear gloves the next time. Thanks for your help.
Usually if it heats for few minutes then doesn't relight one of the coils has gone bad. They come as a pair as you know somake sure you replace both. You have done everything right so far... You do have bad coils though.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Model LE7010XSNO. No Heat After Lint Cleaned Out
Those are likely possibilities. Also check the wiring for disconnected or burned terminals especially in areas that get hot. The element comes out easily to visually check it for breaks. If that's OK I'd look at the safety thermostat.
SOURCE: i replaced the heating element
The blower wheel is loose
a common problem on these dryers.
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SOURCE: Maytag Model PYE2300AYW Heats for short time
In most every case i have seen this happen, the dryer is connected to flexible venting. Flexible venting is the worst thing for a dryer. Rigid aluminum only. If your element shuts down that fast, it is definitely an air flow problem. Remove the front, clean out the lint screen housing from the spout to the blower, all the way to the lint screen so that it looks factory clean. The venting must be absolutely clean as it was the day it was put in new. The outside application, whether it is louvers, vent flapper, or ball vent, must be clean and operable as a new one. Once again, my suspicion is the venting as it is most likely a flexible type of venting with either excessive length or restricted flow. A dryer can only be vented for 30 ft. counting 5ft for every elbow and 5ft for the outside application. But the flexible equates as this...for every 1 foot of flex you must add 5 foot because of air restriction. I am surprised that the non resetable fuse has not blown yet. ( it will, trust me.)
SOURCE: AMANA dryer model ALE643RBW burnt wire
I would think that:
Low voltage. A lack of proper voltage increases the current flow (amps) and can cause overheating, thus, a burnt wire. Remember, the lower the voltage, the higher the amps.
Bad connection. Poor connections can cause small amounts of arcing, thus burning the connection. This adds resistance to the circuit which causes a possible voltage drop and, again overheating due to higher amps.
Since all that equipment is on the same circuit, I would really think it is a voltage drop situation. With everything calling for power at the same time, the breaker trips. In some cases, it may be just enough for the breaker not to trip but still have a low voltage situation.
There is the possibility of an over current, such as a power spike from the power company but it would have to happen more than just a time or two.
And the outside chance that lighting got into the system when it struck something close to you home but it, in almost every case, would destroy something else, usually electronic. (This has happened to me. Trashed my dryer, dishwasher, and answering machine.)
Good luck and hope this helps. Le me know how you come out.
SOURCE: Dryer Heats for 30 Minutes then stops heating
Hello there :
what you are going to want to do is to troubleshoot the heating circuit
if you have a multimeter
there is a thermal Cut-Out switch that is connected to the heater box.) -simply unplug wires
and take reading from the end connetors
your reading should be 0 ohms. and nothing else
Next check
a part called the Hi-Limit
Thermostat that is connected to the heater box, it should be located closest to the heating element wire leads unplug the wires and take the reading across the 2 wire connections . this should give you a reading of 0 ohms and nothing else.
Now if any of these 2 parts are not in this range they need to be replaced and i would recommend that you replace them as a set cause if one usually goes out then the other one will soon follow ok
I hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Michael
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