Problem with fluval leisure range EB10FRX. Fan oven/clock stopped working and Told this is the thermal cutout fuse. I have replacement but can't find the fuse on the cooker. Can anyone help?

Ands like a thermostat or thermal fuse issue.

I presume it is this part. The spares page says it had diagrams, but needs the serial number. You can ask them the location.

https://www.leisure-parts.co.uk/cooker-oven/eb10frx-7726786352/cooker-thermal-limiter-t133-16a/product.pl?pid=2207062&path=936833&model_ref=417607

from

https://www.leisure-parts.co.uk/eb10frx-7726786352/catalogue.pl?path=936833&model_ref=417607

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You main 'fuse' is the breaker. It does have a thermal fuse, but that has a different function. Information and videos that may help, but in questions like this a full make and model number are needed.

https://www.google.com/search?q=leisure+cooker+with+2+ovens%2C+fuse

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Hi Stella,

i am sorry for you, but you can forget repairing the timer.
You can replace it of course.
You do not need the timer to operate the oven.
For that you need to bypass the timer. The clock will stay working normally.
Although the 55 is smaller then the 110, the working of the clock should be the same.
Net link will give you more information and I hope you will fin the solution there.
Kind regards and a good weekend, Dik

Leisure Rangemaster 110 Electric Range Cooker How to bypass

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
If the microwave will not work at all, make sure power is on at the outlet and test the electrical cord. Test the fuse and replace it if it is faulty. Also check the door to make sure it closes properly. Test and, if needed, replace the fan.
If the oven doesn't cook or cooks only intermittently but the display is on, check the door interlock switch, the thermal cutout and the fan, replacing parts that don't pass the test.

It could be the thermal cutouts operating. First things first, is the cooling fan running and does it turn off about 10 mins after the ovens/grill are turned off? If it isn't running then the unit is overheating and the thermal cutouts will operate. If it is running normally, then the cutout could be switching in early due to them becoming old and ineffective. There are two cutouts in the oven. One controls the main oven and the other controls the top oven. However, the grill operates without the clock being set, i.e. it is independent of the clock. So, if both the top oven and grill stop working together, according to the wiring diagrams in the handbook, the only thing it could be is the thermal cutout for the top unit.
F.Y.I. The top oven switch controls both the grill and the oven elements. In other words, in its OFF position, the Grill works and the Oven doesn't and in its ON setting the Oven works and the Grill doesn't. However, I can't see this failing as you specify, but worth checking if you take the oven to bits. The Grill will only work if the oven door is down.
If you need to replace the cooling fan, you will have to take the whole unit out of the kitchen cupboard to gain access to the top and rear oven panels, which have to be removed to gain access to the cooling fan and wiring. If you do replace it, ensure all the vents for air circulation are free from dirt and grease before you put it all back.
Try espares for STOVES spares. If the item is not listed you can ask them for a quote.
Be aware that the cooling fan is controlled by a timer circuit board and an in-line resistor on the fan terminal block. Either or both of these two and or the fan could have failed if the fan is not running! Any competent electrician should be able to work out what has failed.
All the diagrams are in the Handbook. If you need a copy, supply an email address and I will send you a pdf copy.
If you do ask for a quote, I suggest you ask for prices for all the parts mentioned above, so once you have checked what has failed, you will have enough info on pricing and availability as to whether to proceed or not.

It could be the thermal cutouts operating. First things first, is the cooling fan running and does it turn off about 10 mins after the ovens/grill are turned off? If it isn't running then the unit is overheating and the thermal cutouts will operate. If it is running normally, then the cutout could be switching in early due to them becoming old and ineffective. There are two cutouts in the oven. One controls the main oven and the other controls the top oven. However, the grill operates without the clock being set, i.e. it is independent of the clock. So, if both the top oven and grill stop working together, according to the wiring diagrams in the handbook, the only thing it could be is the thermal cutout for the top unit.
F.Y.I. The top oven switch controls both the grill and the oven elements. In other words, in its OFF position, the Grill works and the Oven doesn't and in its ON setting the Oven works and the Grill doesn't. However, I can't see this failing as you specify, but worth checking if you take the oven to bits. The Grill will only work if the oven door is down.
If you need to replace the cooling fan, you will have to take the whole unit out of the kitchen cupboard to gain access to the top and rear oven panels, which have to be removed to gain access to the cooling fan and wiring. If you do replace it, ensure all the vents for air circulation are free from dirt and grease before you put it all back.
Try espares for STOVES spares. If the item is not listed you can ask them for a quote.
Be aware that the cooling fan is controlled by a timer circuit board and an in-line resistor on the fan terminal block. Either or both of these two and or the fan could have failed if the fan is not running! Any competent electrician should be able to work out what has failed.
All the diagrams are in the Handbook. If you need a copy, supply an email address and I will send you a pdf copy.
If you do ask for a quote, I suggest you ask for prices for all the parts mentioned above, so once you have checked what has failed, you will have enough info on pricing and availability as to whether to proceed or not.

most likely thermal fuse behind oven take off back plate and you will see the brown wire with the heat shrink sleeving covering the fuse.wire and fuse comes as one part

The main fuse or the thermal cutout is probably blown. If the main fuse is blown, most likely the high voltage capacitor is shorted and must be replaced. If this is the case, it's a good idea to also replace the high voltage diode because it took a large over-current hit before the fuse blew. Be sure the oven is unplugged before measuring the resistance of the fuse or capacitor (the diode should read open in both directions because the forward voltage is more than a typical ohmmeter can put out). (Note: replacing the fuse without identifying and fixing the short or overload will simply waste the new fuse. It's not like the old farmhouse with one fuse for a dozen outlets going out because one item too many was plugged in.) The capacitor is available on Amazon for less than $17 (be sure the voltage and uF values match the one in your oven), the diode is about half of that, and the fuse should be under $3.

If the thermal cutout is blown, check the magnetron cooling provisions - make sure the fan turns freely, the blades are clean, and all vents are clean. After replacing the thermal cutout, verify that magnetron cooling fan runs at speed when the oven is running. Keep your hands and tools out of the oven if you are testing it with the cover off. The high voltage side can be energized by as much as 1800 Volts. An arc from this can cause serious damage or personal injury.
Amazon com 0CZZW1H004S Kenmore Microwave Capacitor Drawing Hi Home...

Hi all...

Yep got the main oven gone......
Lucky iam good with electrics, got my brother in law to double check Qualified Elctrician it turns out that its the Thermal Fuse that has gone have ordered a new one at the cost of £8.......
This range is made by Beco thats why its hard to find info on the cooker.. The grill/fan oven has thermal fuse as well.....
Hope this helps MVE