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Bob Rich Posted on Oct 27, 2016

My Porcher toilet cistern stopped flushing. Pushing buttons doesn't release water. I have looked inside. Central column ratchets side to side but I cannot pull it out.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 56 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 12, 2010

SOURCE: water leaking inside toilrt bowl

The flush megnisems rubber has parished.
Step1. open sistern and locate the flush meganisem, [shoold 90% of time be the gajet in middel]

Step2.unhook or unscrew all the handels conected to it,

Step3. turn the meganisem left, it wil pop out and at the bottom after you pop it out u see a black rubber that looks damaged, go to plumbing shop with the rubber and they will give u 1 ,its cheeep.

that should fix it.

plz rate my advice


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Anonymous

  • 3006 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2009

SOURCE: water overflow from cistern to bowl

The shut off valve depends upon where your plumber fitted it and whether one was installed at all. If there's not one near the cistern then you'll need to find the stop valve which is on either the main household cold water tank outlet or if the cistern is filled directly by mains water then you'll need to turn off the main supply valve or even the valve in the street.

The fault is caused by a failed syphon assembly inside the cistern. Although it's possible to remove the faulty part and replace it the sheer number of different syphon assembly designs and the age of many of them usually mean that it's quicker and simpler to replace the entire assembly. Without knowing exactly which make and model of syphon you have it's impossible to give you any more specific details as the operating methods vary so widely, but if you're mechanically minded then you may well find that you can dismantle the old syphon and locate the failed seal. Sometimes all you need to repair them is an old car tyre inner tube and a pair of scissors. A repair often costs pennies and takes hours, a complete replacement syphon assembly often costs between £13 and £60 depending on the model and design (plus labour) but usually takes no more than around fifteen to twenty minutes to replace if the cistern is close-coupled to the toilet and a bit longer if it's an old-fashioned high level cistern with restricted access.

Given the need for guesswork based on the limited details in your question I hope that you appreciate my reply and ask only that you return the favour by rating my answer.

Testimonial: "thanks for the fast reply and solution"

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2009

SOURCE: my toilet cistern is continually hissing

Hi I have exactly the same problem, in fact it could have been me writing this - 3 toliets fine, main bathroom hisses. The Geberit flushing ciphen on the left (the smaller one) has been replaced and there is still a problem. If you look carefully,the water level needs to come up over the lip of an opening on the Geberit part and this causes the valve mechanism to shut off and stop the hissing. It is fine for about 40 minutes and then the hissing starts again if you don't flush it. The reason is that the water level has gone down but there is no obvious signs of where the water is going. It could be that the central flush mechanism is leaking slightly. I am going to replace this part next. If I were you I'd see if you are getting any water leakage into the pan when toilet not in use to see if the water level in the cistern is going down James T

Sheldon Dedek

  • 912 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 19, 2010

SOURCE: I hAVE A TECMA RV

Hello,

Your macerator has likely failed, unfortunately. There is a fellow Mobile RV tech (RV Medic) in Springfield, I am pretty sure he services Branson as well. Perhaps they will be able to get you fixed up.

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 13, 2012

SOURCE: Weak dual flush does not empty the toilet bowl.

Waste pipe problems aside, if its a dual flush check you are actually working the full flush button and that the mechanism is working properly and not stuck operating only the half flush. If then you look in the tank both the total water level in the tank (white screw at the filling valve) and the quantity of water let go for each full and half flush (blue parts below, in the flush mechanism) can be set to different levels. Yours might be set to the minimum

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Related Questions:

tip

FIXING A TOILET THAT WILL NOT FLUSH!!! a simple but very effective money saving...

This simple how to, is based upon most lever operated toilets, with the cistern mounted above the toilet bowl. The make and model of toilet used for this feature is of the following:
Toilet and internal syphon
DUDLEY ELITEDudley S7 Cascade syphon
Problem:
My toilet will not flush, but the ball float valve is working and there is water in the cistern; no leaks present and the flushing lever is not broken or disconnected, what do I do?
Answer:
first isolate the water to the toilet or the main water supply to the house. Bail out the water from the cistern using a small jug or cup, (or you can syphon the water manually using a hosepipe or similar pipe, a towel to cover your mouth, and either a bucket or the toilet bowl) and remove water from the bottom of the cistern with a sponge.


Changing the syphon in a toilet that is not close coupled is far easier as you do not need to remove the cistern from the wall!


Undo the lower of the two large nuts beneath the cistern using a large pipe wrench or pair of water pump pliers, now disconnect the flush pipe and push it to one side.
Place a bucket or bowl beneath the cistern and undo the Nut which is immediately below the cistern (syphon replacing nut), some water may be released by the syphon, take note of any washers that are removed as new ones need fitting when replacing the siphon.
Unhook the lift rod from the flushing lever and remove the syphon.


Inside the toilet syphon, there will be a small plastic piece of sheet called a diaphragm; you can fabricate a replacement using the plastic title cover on a DVD case. Cut this to the exact same size and shape as the original part, and fit this to where the original diaphragm was. This is your new replacement.


Refitting is a complete reversal of removal, be sure to fit any washers (preferably new ones) that you have taken out. Ensure everything is tight but do not over tighten before refilling the cistern



on Aug 09, 2010 • Plumbing
0helpful
1answer

Flush button, when pressed nothing happens

Grasp the collar that surrounds the button and turn counterclockwise to unscrew it and allow the cover to be removed.
Hope this helps.
Bob
0helpful
1answer

Toilet Cistern Sticking

Mechanism that releases and shuts off water should be checked if any part has disconnect or improper connection.
Jul 09, 2013 • Home
0helpful
1answer

Leaking toilet from overflow

if you flush and the water continues to run into the bowl the it is the flush washer that needs repalcing
If that water shuts off and the cistern fills and then continues so that it flows down the over flow pipe into the bowl the it is the water inlet control washer that needs replacing
1helpful
1answer

Water running into the bowl after flush and refil

IT SEEMS TO ME THAT THE BALL-**** (FLOAT SWITCH) IN THE CISTERN IS SET TOO HIGH UP. THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT MODELS BUT ALL SHOULD BE EASILY ADJUSTED. HAVE A LOOK INSIDE THE CISTERN AND ADJUST THE FLOAT SO THAT THE WATER STOPS AT A LOWER LEVEL. IF THE WATER IS CONTINUOSLY FLOWING INTO THE CISTERN WHEN FULL YOU MIGHT NEED A NEW INLET WASHER
31helpful
2answers

How do i take the lid of the cistern

There is a trick to this for Porcher toilets. Push big flush button down, then lift up and out the small button. The big button lifts out. Undo plastic bolt and lift up lid. cheers, zoofish
2helpful
1answer

Does not flush completely. Works 2 out 3 times.

Needs new flushing mechanism. Remove Cistern, Remove flush siphon and either replace siphon washer or replace complete siphon.
17helpful
4answers

Maybe I'm an idiot but I don't know how to get the top off of my

The cistern lid is held down by the chrome assembly (which includes the two buttons that you press to make the toilet flush) sticking up in the middle of the lid. You need to unscrew that (anticlockwise) to be able to lift the lid off, to get to the inlet valve, etc.

If the water is running in very slowly, chances are high that the small screen filter under the inlet valve is partially blocked. Working inside the cistern, you need to unscrew the inlet valve assembly (noting the order in which the various parts come out!), then unscrew the cranked fitting just under that, to get the screen/filter.
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