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Riding mower will not start. Full charge. Occasional click. How do I check ignition, seat, brake switches, solonoid, & starter? Craftsman LT1000 19.5HP B&S.
Battery connections good. Meter shows 12V between ignition switch and frame. What next?Battery connections good. Meter shows 12V between ignition switch and frame. What next?
If you are ABSOLUTELY sure that the connections are good then the starter motor is suspect.If you are ABSOLUTELY sure that the connections are good then the starter motor is suspect.
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First, check your connections at the cut seat switch.
There are two other safety switches. When the brake is down, solenoid power goes thru the brake switch. When the blades are disengaged, solenoid power goes thru the attachment switch then directly to the solenoid coil.
But the fact that you can get the engine to spin implies that either brake or attachment switch is not physically moving to the safe position.
The start circuit usually only goes through the clutch/brake switch, and the clutch switch. That way it won't start if the clutch isn't depessed (brake on) and the mower deck turned off. You can test for voltage on the s terminal (start) on your switch. then for 12V+ at the clutch brake switch, then at the clutch switch, finally at the solonoid. The seat switch usually only kills the ignition if you have the PTO engaged, and you leave the seat.
Could be, but test each item with your tester. Test key switch (12V in and 12 V out when turned to start., operator present switch 12V in 12V out (seat) Clutch switch, etc. till finally you test for 12V on the small terminal on the starter solonoid. Happy testing!
When you say it quit running, did it stop while you were mowing? Or did it just not start one day. Could be the ignition switch, but not likely. There are several safety switches on your mower. First is the operator present (switch in the seat) then there is the switch on the clutch that requires you to hold the clutch in when you start. Then there is a switch on the PTO for the deck that must be off to start. Without an exact model number, I can't look at the exact wiring schematic, but this is generally how they work. If you have a tester, and know how to use it start at the battery, look for 12 V. Then test from ground to one side of ignition swithch. Then to the other while the key is in start. Then find wires to seat switch. This switch should keep the mower from starting and keeps the pto engaged usually. then find the switch for the clutch/brake. test both sides of that. Finally test the small terminal on the starter solonoid. If you're getting 12V to the solonoid, and you have a good ground on your battery and it still won't start, could be the solonoid. If it actually quit while you were mowing, I'd check the seat switch and pto switch.
most likely the blades are still in the on position,but you have a seat switch, parking brake switch, and the blade switch, also the mow in reverse key switch. if mower dies once you let out the clutch in reverse with blades on and key wrong.
So the engine wont turn over at all? Well, we know the fuse is good since the fuel solonoid is getting power. Do you have a test light? Locate the starter solonoid, check for power to the small spade on the starter solonoid when the key is turned to the start position. Be sure the brake pedal is depressed, the pto is disengaged, and that the seat switch is depressed.
If you have power to the small spade then check the large posts for power. The battery side should have power all the time and the starter side should have power when key is turned to start. If you have power from battery and power from key switch but no power to starter then the starter solonoid is suspect.
If solonoid tests good and power is getting to starter but starter doesnt engage then starter is suspect.
If no power to small spade on starter solonoid then you will have to do some back tracking. It could be the key switch, one or more of 3 safety switches or bad wire/ bad connections
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