How to remove the covers - Husqvarna Interlude 445 Sewing Machine

To remove the case of a Singer 5532 sewing machine to access areas that need oiling, follow these steps:

1. Unplug the machine from the electrical outlet to prevent any accidents.
2. Remove the presser foot and needle from the machine.
3. Remove the bobbin case and the bobbin.
4. Turn the machine over and remove the four screws on the bottom of the machine.
5. Turn the machine back over and gently remove the top cover.
6. Remove the screws that hold the front cover in place and remove the front cover.
7. Remove the screws that hold the side cover in place and remove the side cover.
8. You should now be able to access the areas of the machine that need oiling.

When you are finished oiling the machine, reassemble the machine in the reverse order that you took it apart. Make sure that all screws are tightened securely and that all covers are properly seated before plugging the machine back in and turning it on.

V-Belt replacement 801/801 Up Machines

Only the belt cover needs to be removed for this belt change. This is done by removing the three screws on the end/belt cover. Loosen the 5mm Allen socket head screw below the step pulley to relieve the belt tension. Remove the lower motor belt. Lift the step pulley and slide off the hand-wheel, (assuming that you have already removed the release knob and clutch ring).



Additional top cover removals 807/801 Minimatic machines

Early 807 machines had two expansion nipples in the top cover that fit into receptor holes in the upper arm frame. Simply pull up the top cover.

Very late models may have a push button latch mechanism, same as on the 801 machines except those fitted with carrying handles, i.e. 801 Sport, 810 machines.

This is accessed by opening the light cover and finding an aluminum knob in the upper left hand corner of the upper arm frame. Push this in and the cover will release. Lift off the top cover.

Sorry but I will need more information

Generally, there is a separate cover over the thread path, and it's designed to be removed by the user for cleaning, removing thread ends and jams. It's held by one or two screws; if it's one screw, it's in the back of the cover. If it's two, one is in the side, and it's usually covered by a white disk for cosmetic purposes. In that case, push a flat-blade screwdriver on the edge and the other edge will pop out enough for you to grab and remove it. Replacing the disk is not mandatory for the machine to run--it's just for looks. Word to the wise--keep adhesive tape next to you when you do these things, and tape the screws back in or next to their holes when you remove them.

There is one screw on the bottom of the machine in the center of the handwheel end. Remove this screw fully. Then the cover should come off fairly easily. The top of the cover has two pins that slide up into the housing of the machine. So be careful not to break these while removing the cover. Also, the screw that goes in from the bottom is held tight by a metal washer that rests in a plastic channel on the cover. Be sure not to lose this washer. If you do, you will not be able to reattach the cover.

.... there is no back cover - it is part of the metal frame 'housing'. You can remove the base, the top cover, the end cover (handwheel end), the cover on the freearm. You can access the spool pin fixing by taking off the top cover.

I assume you're talking about the main back and front cover. Unless you really are skilled, I'd leave this project to a professional.
I've worked on the Designer I, II type machine and I believe yours has similar construction. You need screwdriver bits with a 6 pointed "star" head. Screws in the cover itself are "H10" size. Screws in the base are "H15" size. The back cover has to be taken off first before you can get at screws for the front cover. Typically there are 5 screws on the back cover that have to be removed and 2 in the bottom of the base. Note that the front and back covers "snap" together and have to be unsnapped after the screws are removed. If you have to take off the front cover (requires removing more screws in the cover and base), be careful with the various wiring harnesses that attach to the main circuit board.

i poped the plastic covers on the back of the machine to expose the screws and unscrewed them. prying off the plastic cover was harder: the switch on the side is in the way. but eventually it pried off. to put it back i had to remove the plastic cover on the free arm first, since they fit like tongue and grove. so the top cover goes on first, then slip the free arm cover.

To remove the cover of the Singer model 117 Featherweight II sewing machine:

Referring to the diagram below:

1.Remove the face plate by removing the single screw fastening it to the left end of the chassis.

2.To make things easier, remove the presser foot (raise the presser foot and release the presser foot from its holder by pressing the black plastic foot release found at the rear of the foot holder, the foot will fall off.)

3.Remove the plastic see-thru slide plate that covers the bobbin. Remove the bobbin, and remove the two screws that secure the needle plate.Lift off the needle plate.Don't mess with the feed dog screws( Look closely at the" bobbin case assembly" and note how it is installed. The black thing you are looking at is the assembly. The chrome thing that looks like a hook is a fixed "bobbin case stop plate" , the case assembly fits under that and is supported by the hook race. Approximately 180 degrees from the fixed stop is a spring stop- note that the bobbin case assembly is free to rotate/ wiggle approximately 1/8" between these two points, and it is seated evenly in the hook race.Remember what you see so you can reinstall it later)Remove the bobbin case assembly with your fingers.

4.Remove the detachable tool case from the front of the machine by sliding it to the left.

5.The face cover is fastened to the chassis with four screws- two on the bottom which also pass through the bottom of the rear cover, one behind the face plate just above the lower thread guide, and one on the front of the machine behind the tool case. Remove the screws on the front and the left end, and loosen the two screws on the bottom ( if you are planning to remove the rear cover go ahead and remove the bottom screws completely.) There is no need to remove the screws that hold the auxiliary leg bar.

6.The screws are out- HOW DO I GET THE COVER OFF!?!
There is a hidden locking tab located just beneath the mylar seal that warns you to disconnect the machine before servicing and to close the cover before operating the machine. It is located just to the right of the needle plate and directly over the seam that separates the front and back covers. Don't remove the seal just slice it with a razor blade or utility knife right along the seam, make sure you cut all the way through the seal.

Working from the needle plate opening, take a medium sized flat-bladed screw driver and slide it under the rear cover just behind the seam (see photo) carefully twist the blade in a manner that both separates and lifts the rear cover off the front cover- it takes quite a bit of force and it will let loose with a loud snap. After the locking tab is loose the front cover is easily separated and lifted off the chassis.

unlocking the case:


a closeup of the tab on the front cover


7.The rear cover is held on by three screws. There is one through the back at the handle recess, and there are two screws accessible from the front after the front cover is removed. Lower the presser foot lever, pull the screws and the rear cover will come off easy. Good luck with your repairs.

Many are held in place only by spring clips and can be removed by strong fingernails or a dull knife pushed into the **** of the cover and lifted.