2002 yamaha 115 2 stroke outboard boat engine need carb float height and needle needle valve adjustment specs

Every 2 stroke I've ever worked on, the float is set parallel to the bottom of the carburetor. Turn the carb upside down and look to see if the float is even with the bottom of the carb.

No Jason.. relax.. I do need more info.. where is the gas? If its accumulated in the bottom of the shroud.. you probably have non-sealing needle and seats..if its filled the crankcase = the same issue. take it to a competent professional and have them clean and set the carbs.. and check the needle/seat assembly in all the carbs. They are what regulates the flow of gas into the carbs... when they do not close... the gas has to go somewhere.. and its never good...

2003 Yamaha 115 4 Strokes Operation and Idle Demo ...

? 2:29
www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMmionreldM
Dec 29, 2012 - Uploaded by Peter Richards Engines for 1989 Larson boat with dual 115 Yamaha 4 StrokeEngines. ... Outboard Yamaha 150 HP DIRTY idle JETS, Motor will not idle .

The needle and seats can only handle about 10 psi fuel pressure before being forced open. If you are squeezing the bulb above this pressure they are going to leak.
If they are doing it at a lower pressure replace the float needle and check float height. The your referring to the bulb on the engine itself that one pushes fuel directly into the throttle body.

very basic carbs ! clean all jets and emulsion tube then check the float needle is clean and the tip isnt grooved , blow threw all ports etc and then refit and set the mix screw 1.5 turns out for starters then run up in a tub of water and fine tune till its happy to idle and rev up ! make of engine ??

Sticking floats or worn float valve needles or incorrect float height, tap float bowls to see it overflow stops (sticky float), remove and clean float bowls and fuel inlet passage with carb cleaner and compressed air, check float valve for wear to the rubber tip. Reset float height by slightly bending the metal tab on the float to adjust the closing height of the valve measure from the carb bowl mating surface to the top of the float when fitted then re adjust 1mm at a time higher untill fuel doesnt over flow.

it may be due to a few things like:
1. The needle valve or its seat is worn. You have to change it as a set. This involves opening up the carb.
2. There may be some debris or varnish between the mating surface of the needle valve and seat which also requires opening up the carb and cleaning with carb cleaner.
3. You carb float level setting may be incorrect. You have to know the float height from the manual and then have it adjusted. There is usually a small metal under the float which is used for float height adjustment.
4. Your carb float may be stuck and this usually happens when the bike is on its side stand and not used for a long time.

Check the needle valve that the float holds in position is free to move if it is check the float is working OK ie.whole and intact.

I had the same problem - actually more than one problem:
1) Floats in the carburetor bowl (at the bottom of the carb) are getting stuck. Remove the carb; carefully disassemble the bowl & float assembly (pay attention to gasket orientation and don't lose the needle valve that the float-tab presses on!); use a carb cleaner from AutoZone or similar, and a toothbrush to clean all the parts. If carb is not too dirty, leave the jets and mixture-adjust screws alone (otherwise will have to re-adjust later).

2) Overflow tube is plugged (hence fuel in the cylinder instead of on the ground). Clean both ends of the brass-looking tube from inside and outside the carb bowl. Make sure you can blow through it or it is still plugged. Toothbrush and carb cleaner should do the trick. Replace the short flexible tubing that connects to the overflow on the outside of the bowl - transparent polyurethane tubing is less than $1 per foot at your local ATV/motorcycle shop.

3) Air Vent tube is plugged. Same thing as the Overflow tube but mounted higher up in the carb (not in the bowl). Clean it the same way and replace the flex tubing with another short piece of polyurethane.

4) Make sure the float-tab and needle-valve move smoothly. Mine was catching and getting stuck so I carefully "polished" the face of the tab with 400-grit emery paper, and then made sure to clean the area from grit. Smooth as a hot knife through butter now.

5) Set the float level by CAREFULLY bending the tab that pushes on the needle valve. On my 1981 175MX, float height spec is 21mm when just making contact with the needle. Yours may be different though.

6) Reassemble the carb after making sure all dirt and debris are gone. Use a new bowl gasket or at least put a good gasket-sealer compound on the old gasket. Attach the short lengths of transparent polyurethane tubing to the Overflow and Air Vent. When installing the carb, the Air Vent tube should just be 2" long and point out to the side; the Overflow tube should route through the frame near the swing-arm and point down to the ground.

7) MAKE SURE the Oil Feed tube coming from the AutoLube oil pump is connected to the carb (brass-looking fitting toward the cylinder-end). I replaced mine with transparent polyurethane tubing (different size than the Air Vent and Overflow), so now I can see that oil is being presented to the carb!

8) If the carb was nasty-dirty, you may need a new air filter. Mine was disintegrating. I recommend also putting an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb, again using short lengths of TRANSPARENT polyurethane tubing (so you can see that fuel is flowing). You may also need to adjust & prime the AutoLube oil pump.

I highly recommend getting a Clymer manual (check eBay) which shows all these procedures and gives you the right specs for float height, etc. based on your model / year.