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I have a 2014 camper with a atwood water heater that want heat with 120v I have 12vdc to circuit board and 3vdc to relay. Could problem be circuit board?
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Attach black on meter, or ground clamp on test light to good ground such as cooper line. Test for 12vdc at gas valve when switch turned on and you hear or see ignitor sparking. If no 12vdc, backtrack. Follow red wire from gas valve to (ECO), (both terminals,) then same to thermostat (THERM) . If you get 12vdc on one side, and 6vdc or no voltage on the other, replace it. If you've got 12vdc going to gas valve, and don't feel or hear it "Click" when trying to ignite, try a quick "rap" on valve to see if it's stuck. If valve is opening and you hear gas, but no ignition, clean burner tube good and retry.
Your electrode acts as flame sense as well. Remove electrode and clean it thoroughly/carefully especially at end where flame would be sensed and retry. Be sure connections on high tension wire is good and clean as well as connector and contacts on circuit board as well. If still same result, replace electrode.
Try opening the pressure relief valve (carefully so you don't burn yourself) slightly, and see if water comes out and if it is hot. It sounds like you may have very little if any water in there. Check by-pass valves at back of water heater for proper positioning. Cold should go in the bottom, hot out the top. Make sure there is flow through any valves going into bottom, and any valve at the top.Any valves connected in between the hot and cold should be in the off position. If need be, to test if incoming cold water getting into tank at bottom fitting, shut off water, relieve pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. then close all taps. Now remove your drain plug, then turn water back on, and water should shoot out the drain plug hole with good pressure within a few seconds and flow steady while water on. If not you have a restriction such as valve in wrong position or faulty, so try moving valve to get better flow out drain plug. If flow out drain is good, then make sure valve at top fitting on back of tank (if any) is also open for good flow . Any other valves should be closed in between those 2 lines. Let me know what you find.
Does yours have the little cut-out diode looking thing in the plastic jacket installed between power wire and thermostat? If yes, remove it from the circuit and connect female spade of wire, to male spade of thermostat,(just removing it to by-pass it) and try it now. Let me know what happens.
You may have a control board issue, there is no sensor that is IN the water tank your thermostat controller are exterior to the tank under the black foam looking piece which I think is where your trouble lies
CHECK THE FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN THE CONVERTER BOX. MAKE SURE THE 110V SWITCH BEHIND THE WATER HEATER IS TURNED ON. IF THERE IS POWER AND "ALL" THE 110V SWITCHES ARE ON, TIME TO OHM OUT THE HEATING ELEMENT, LOCATED UNDER THE BOX BEHIND THE WATER HEATER.
IN ORDER TO HAVE 12V AT THE CIRCUIT BOARD, 112V POWER HAS TO GO THRU THE RELAY. SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE A WIRING PROBLEM SOMWHERE, EITHER AT THE SWITCH OR AT THE WATER HEATER SOMEWHERE.
The ignitor is also a flame sensor. If it's not working to ignite, good chance it's not sensing flame to keep gas flowing as well. Could also be board.
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