Noisy washing machine

onthethejob1

• 640 Answers
• Posted on Jan 03, 2009

SOURCE: maytag top loader washing machine

i believe i can help you,,but washers dont agitate in the spin cycle,,i believe you ment it wont wring or spin in the spin cycle..your lid switch is defective,,replace,,if need be i can talk you though,,onthejob

SOURCE: burned belt?

Yes, smell like your belt.. if there is water in tub, try to get it out... (wet vac)... slide your washer out and tilt it back so you can see under... there should be 2 belts.. 1 for gear and 1 for water drain pump... and you can check Sears.com for parts.. good luck...

SOURCE: maytag washing machine #mav6260aw

I found the crazy sound where comes from, it was an aluminum ring in the drain pump.
First of all, I took out the belt under the bottom, checked moter to run itself, it was fine, so, I suspected some waste in somewhere, it was lucky I disassembled the drain pump first, no waste in the drain pump, but I saw a ring that was cut under the pump (seems should be connected), when I try to spin the pump wheel by hand it is broken because of the ring.
I ordered the entire drain pump on the website, the cost $74 + delivery fee, I recognized Maytag re-designed the drain pump due to the ring ( new pump does not have the ring anymore). Now the washer works fine like new.

SOURCE: odor

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



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Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Nov 21, 2010

SOURCE: My Maytag Bravos quiet series

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.