2 things. come to mind.
i check the distributor advance works to spec with my timing light (strobe)
if that is ok, its a carb issue.
carbs fail for many reasons, (mostly gummed up inside)
we clean them. that fixes them. (with a kit)
I only have this for symptoms, and is not good.
MAJOR HESITATION AND STALLING OCCURS
does the engine have full power up any hill wide open throttle
is the Hesitation only a short time then catches up.
The carb (not stated P/N or brand) has jets, the if gummed up
will cause lean running.
so will any power valve jet.
ever tune it up. new spark pats, rotor all the way to spark plugs.
bad spark , loves to fail under load, that is its , magic.
carb>
- low float bowl levels.
- low fuel pressure causing above,
- bad float valve , sticks closed and starts bowl of fuel, causing #1
- Gummed up jets.
- Gummed up emulsion tubes in carb body.
- Choke stuck on, causing flooding,
- Choke dead causing hard starts . (stuck open)
- power valve clogged.
- Highspeed accelerator pump bad, causing only sight hesitation.
my guess? based on 1 word "stall" its #1 to 3 or 6.
black spark plug tips would be #6
or if black sparks, the float valve is stuck open flooding engine and stalling.
we can go for days on carbs. but will not.
Thanks discodata for your reply but I actually found the problem. It was one of the check valves in the fuel pump. Rebuilt the fuel pump with new diaphragm kit and it idles great.
I don't remember which check valve it was, inlet or outlet, but I figure it was getting more gas than it could burn at idle/low rpms, hence the flooding out. At WOT it could burn all of the gas it was getting, hence running good at WOT. Prior to discovering the problem I did some research on line and someone suggested after removing the fuel pump to test it by blowing into the inlet and outlet. I tried this and was able to blow through in the inlet, which is good, and also was able to blow through the outlet, which indicated one of the check valves was not sealing.
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