A Coleman Powermate 6250 with a Briggs and Stratton engine new won't crack. Got gas to crab and motor full of oil. Spray starting fluid in it it until it's gone. Why wouldn't it start? ??

SOURCE: coleman powermate 6250 generator will not start

I have one of these generators, and I can tell you that at least once a year, I have to pull the petcock type assembly off tank, and clean it. I also drain and clean the tank. It gets a sediment build up, and the petcock system isn't the greatest in the world. I'm going to say that you either have a problem in the petcock type assembly, or you have a stuck jet in the carb, either of these can happen with it sitting for the long period of time. Start by removing the fuel line to the carb and checking the fuel flow. Sounds like you may have already done this, I'm unclear on that. Then I would remove the carb, and soak it overnight in a penetrating oil. This will loosen up any rust or parts that may be sticking. One other thing you may consider, depending on where you live, you may have a mud dauber or wasp nest in the intake or other critical area of the engine. I still get amazed at where I find mud dauber nests occasionally, the little buggers seem to be able to get anywhere.

SOURCE: misplaced User Manual for Coleman Powermate 6250

I would run a search on line for your model number. I will look and let you know.

SOURCE: Coleman 6250 Generator won't turn over

try removing the air filter and try starting if it dirty or to oily , no vacuum is created to pull the fuel into the carb

Testimonial: "I removed the air filter,then put air filter back on,it started for 2 mintes.I shut it off, but then allot of gas just spewed out of the air filter?"

SOURCE: Generator with Briggs & Stratton,no gas is getting in carburetor

The needle valve may be stuck which would not let gas into the carb. I don;t think rebuild kits are too expensive. Pull the carb and take it to a lawnmower repair shop and they should have the parts. Before that though pull the bowl and make sure it has gas in it. If no then remove the fuel line and make sure gas flows from it. If no then could be the fuel shutoff valve is not operating properly or junk in the gas tank is obstructing the line.

SOURCE: Powermate 4000 with Briggs &

Next step is to check that the magnet attached to the fly wheel is working properly. When you crank the generator over, put a multimeter on the leads to the magnet and look for a spike in the voltage. Be sure to get the polarity correct or you will damage your multimeter. If there isn't a spike in the voltage, then either the magnet is bad or the fly wheel is damaged. In either case parts will have to be ordered and replaced. If there is a spike in voltage, then it is time to check the fuel intake. Open up and take out the air filter. Inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean and doesn't have fuel or oil in it. If the air filter is we with either things, then this will prevent air from reaching the engine. This alone will cause it not to start. If the filter is clean, then leave it off and open up the throttle. This will give you direct access to the engine through the fuel intake. Put some fuel into a spray bottle, and when you crank over the engine spray some fuel into the hole where the air filter was. If the engine starts/sputters then you have a problem with your carburetor. If the engine doesn't start then you have a deeper issue that may require a trained mechanic to fix. Lets say that if the engine does start/sputter, then we need to take the carburetor off. Our goal is to clean the carburetor of any build-up and/or corrosion that has settled in the carburetor bowl. The carburetor is between the air filter assembly and the main engine block. When in doubt, trace the fuel line from the gas tank, and it will lead you to the carburetor. Next, grab the necessary tools and start by turning off the fuel and draining the carburetor. The fuel valve is typically inline with the fuel line. To drain the carburetor bowl loosen the screw on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Once the last drop is out, then unbolt the carburetor from the engine block. With the carburetor off and parts labeled for easy re-assembly, you then have to remove the fuel bowl. This will either unscrew as a whole from the carburetor body, or have a central bolt that has to be removed. When removing the bowl, PLEASE be very careful and mindful of the fuel float and the filling pin. With the bowl safely off, inspect it for fuel build-up and rust/corrosion. If there is either in the bowl then this means you need to grab a fuel safe cup and an old toothbrush and carefully start cleaning the bowl and the surrounding parts. If you are comfortable with small parts at this point, then carefully remove the fuel float and the the filler pin underneath it. Please take note on how this dis-assembles to ease re-assembly. Clean these parts as well with the clean fuel and toothbrush. Assemble the parts back together once you are sure everything is clean and put the carburetor assembly back onto the engine block. Once everything is tightened down, it is time to turn the fuel back on at the valve on the fuel line. With the fuel back on, hit the prime button 3-5 times and crank the engine over. If the engine doesn't turn over at this point, then there is a much deeper mechanical issue that requires a trained mechanic to fix. Most mechanical fixes at this point are not worth your while and you may save money by purchasing a new engine/generator. Please let me know what you find during diagnosis, and I can provide more help.