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the burn odour and stoppage an electrical fault and coupled with a 20 amp circuit breaker tripping indicates a motor fault
Capacitors are tested with an capacitance tester and not an ohm meter as ohms is a resistance and not capacitance reading
When breakers activate it indicates a massive short or current draw and the problem could be in the windings of the motor
could be water getting into the motor at times causing the intermittent problem
I would suggest that you call in a service technician or an accredited electrician to check out the machine properly
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-motor-2-speed-wp661600-ap6010250.html
WP661600 is the motor part number for most of the Whirlpool Ultimate Care Washers. Your motor has a internal thermal protective fuse, which will open up, then re-close after a certain amount of "cooling down" time for the motor. You may want to wash smaller loads as to give the motor a break on amperage draw. the cost for the motor is around $125-$145. Also, check the timer for burn contacts.
Over heating on a floormate is cuased by obstructions or a clogged up filter. Try running it without the recovery tank. If it doesn't over heat you need to check for obstructions in the nozzle and the tube leading up to the recovery tank. if that is all clear, a new filter should fix it.
If the machine over heats without the recovery tank on it, you might be right. Hoover only sells motor assemblies, not just the brushes. I have never seen them used enough to need new motor brushes simply because of wear. If the brushes are worn down completely, there is probably a short in the motor.
No! I'am afraid it is done, the turntable motor is more than likely burned out along with several electronic parts, since hydro operates on 220volts at 50 cycles per second where you are it makes it totally incompatible with our system.
If the spin cycle is kicking in, then you can be pretty sure that the water has all emptied from the drain cycle, otherwise it wouldn't start the spin. So the chances are the coin catcher clean was not going to be the fix. The Highest probability is simply a case of overload. If the load is to great and the balance is thrown off as a result then it won't get up to full speed (the motor has several windings, so it slowly steps up from a slow spin, then up a step, then another, then full speed. poor loads will cause it to fail to kick in the fastest spin. Having said this, if that's not the case, then I'm afraid to say you may well have a motor, or a controller module fault. If so, it could get expensive.
To test, run the shortest cycle you can with the machine empty. It will be a lot easier to hear and see this way. Make sure that you hear the empty pump eject the water and that you then hear it runn on a little after all the wayer is gone. This will show if it IS in fact enptying completely. Presuming it is, now watch and listen as the spin kicks in. Does it reach full speed when there is no load? If it does, then check the weight of your DRY load doesn't exceed the recommended load (remember a pound over weight will be several pounds overweight once wet!). If it doesn't get up to full speed with no clothes in it, I'm afraid its time to call an engineer.
press back and forth between hi-tempwash and sani rinse several times to get all lights to come on if not then press sani rinse and heated dry back and forth several times. one of though combos will start the test mode
Jayron, is the motor jogging? start to spin, stop, start to spin stop. If so, your motor is jogging between the high and low start windings. The motor during spin should start on the high speed windings and stay there until most of the water is drained. GE came out with a new motor, harness and run cap because of this. If you have a meter, there should be a white and white/red wire going to the motor. If you have a steady 120V and it's doing this jogging, replace the motor with the kit...Let me know if this the issue, Catriver..post back.
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