How do I get to the sumo board to see if it is a bad fuse causing the no power problem.I know it is located under the silver panel on the top but don't want to break the plastic trying to open it

HI There,
I have replaced quite a number of SUMO boards on the Electrolux Twin Clean Vacuums. We have them in our online store vacuumspot.com.au
I am a little unsure from your question if you are looking to buy one or hoping to repair the board itself. If you are looking to buy this Sumo Board (part number 2193235021) or any other Electrolux Z8240 Spares we can certainly help you there.
However as far as I am aware the board is not realistically possible to repair so if that is what you wanted to do I think you are out of luck.
Hope this at least clears things up a little.
Regards
Alec

The Sumo Board, is housed inside the canister section, part # and discription below
E-1180136-56 SUMO BOARD
So replacing the hose and or wand will not fix the problem. Suggest you stay away from "big box", retail, discount stores if you want another one.
You can contact me via email, I am the Ralph
Nador of this business
[email protected]

poor quality parts= problematic machines

my electrolux oxygen canister just quit- i think it's the sumo board and the whole fuse problem why does this keep happening over and over (my 4th time w/ this model) and where can I buy a replacement sumo board myself?

The fuse on my ELECTROLUX Oxygen3's sumo board did have clear markings: F5AL250V - this is a 5A/250V 20mm fuse made by BEL FUSE, however, any other such fuse should work. The fuse on my board was blown (luckily, what caused it seems to be a glitch as replacing the fuse was all that I had to do). I got 5A/250V 20mm fuse from RadioShack and, expecting that this could happen again, I also installed a simple (5A/250V-rated) automotive fuse holder (also from RadioShack) (the only fuse holder that was available at a local store) and it works wonderfully now. Should the fuse blow on me again, I should be able to replace it in less than 3 minutes.

HOW TO OPEN MIELE 251 VACCUUM: 1-Unplug from wall and disconnect power cord 2-Remove black switch panel at back of top panel: A-Use Phillips screwdriver, remove two silver screws visible between back of hinged top door and front of black switch panel
B-Push back of the panel down while pushing it forward (towards front of machine). There are two plastic notches and clips which are tightly fit together that you need to separate.
Once it releases, push it a bit more towards the front of the machine and lift off panel. It has wires connecting it to the main body so it will not remove completely.
C-Be careful not to lose the springs that simply sit inside of two plastic channels, one under each of the two switches. These are required for your witches to operate properly.
3-Locate screw at bottom of deep rectangular hole now revealed (under former location of black switch panels). Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver. 4-Open hinged top panel. Locate two silver screws, one on each side of main housing. Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver. 5-This will let you lift off the whole top assembly, door and main housing, revealing the plastic chassis and the motor unit within.
You now have access to the motor, wiring connector harnesses, circuit board and the cord reel.

Check the electrical connections between the hose and the body of the machine, and also the wand connections all the way to the power head. Sometimes a faulty connection can send a false "off" signal back to the main body of the machine, and turn it off; but usually it will restart if that's the case. It sounds like you have a clog somewhere which is tripping your motor's thermal cutout, but you did say there are no clogs... so if you have full suction all the way down to the powerhead that's not the issue. You could have a faulty thermal switch, but I think the likely cause is, as usual; the sumo board.

Good luck. Sorry I didn't have a more concise answer for you.


-R

HOW TO OPEN MIELE 251 VACCUUM: 1-Unplug from wall and disconnect power cord 2-Remove black switch panel at back of top panel: A-Use Phillips screwdriver, remove two silver screws visible between back of hinged top door and front of black switch panel
B-Push back of the panel down while pushing it forward (towards front of machine). There are two plastic notches and clips which are tightly fit together that you need to separate.
Once it releases, push it a bit more towards the front of the machine and lift off panel. It has wires connecting it to the main body so it will not remove completely.
C-Be careful not to lose the springs that simply sit inside of two plastic channels, one under each of the two switches. These are required for your witches to operate properly.
3-Locate screw at bottom of deep rectangular hole now revealed (under former location of black switch panels). Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver. 4-Open hinged top panel. Locate two silver screws, one on each side of main housing. Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver. 5-This will let you lift off the whole top assembly, door and main housing, revealing the plastic chassis and the motor unit within.
You now have access to the motor, wiring connector harnesses, circuit board and the cord reel.

There is a board in the back (called the "SUMO board") which has a fuse hardwired to it. Most of the "no go" problems with this machine are related to this.

In order to check it, you'll want to take a thin flat-head screwdriver, and gently pry up the silver panel on the top of the machine. The easiest place to do this is on the side of the panel, as far toward the rear of the machine as possible.

You will then need to remove the 2 Torx screws on the rear panel, and the top body of the machine should then be able to be removed. There are two clips in the bag chamber, directly under the back portion of the bag compartment lid, which can be pressed in to facilitate removal of the back cover.

The sumo board will be sitting directly on the top of the machine, and the fuse in question will be on the right if you are looking at it from the rear of the machine. Unfortunately, if the fuse is blown, you will have to replace the entire circuit board. (Unless you feel very comfortable with soldering a new fuse onto it, which I do not recommend for safety reasons.)

You can also check continuity of the cord reel from here. On the right hand side of the board are two spade terminals leading to wires running down into the cord reel assembly. One black, one white. Checking the continuity between these terminals and the ends of the power supply cord will allow you to determine if the cord reel is providing power to the machine.

Accessing the cord reel will require you to remove the six Torx screws holding the main body to the base. Two of these are on the rear of the machine, and are very deep inside; so you will require a very long-shanked Torx driver to get at these. Two more are inside the bag chamber at the rear, and the other two are on the front handle assembly. This will allow you to lift the main body away from the base, and if you are replacing the cord reel you can pull the wires from the spade terminals and the socket on the sumo board, and feed them back down into the cord reel chamber to remove the old cord reel.

Reassembly is simply a reverse of the previous. Beware, however: getting the cord reel to align is something of a chore, so make sure that you have the retraction system functioning before you put the whole thing back together, or you'll be bummed when you finish reassembly and the cord won't retract.
(I've definitely never done that. Nope. Never.)

Hope that helps, good luck.

-R

This is often caused by a failure of a fuse on the Sumo board, or occasionally by a failure of the cord reel. I just posted a rather extensive set of instructions on how to check these things as a response to a different thread, but I will repost them here:

--
There is a board in the back (called the "SUMO board") which has a fuse hardwired to it. Most of the "no go" problems with this machine are related to this.

In order to check it, you'll want to take a thin flat-head screwdriver, and gently pry up the silver panel on the top of the machine. The easiest place to do this is on the side of the panel, as far toward the rear of the machine as possible.

You will then need to remove the 2 Torx screws on the rear panel, and the top body of the machine should then be able to be removed. There are two clips in the bag chamber, directly under the back portion of the bag compartment lid, which can be pressed in to facilitate removal of the back cover.

The sumo board will be sitting directly on the top of the machine, and the fuse in question will be on the right if you are looking at it from the rear of the machine. Unfortunately, if the fuse is blown, you will have to replace the entire circuit board. (Unless you feel very comfortable with soldering a new fuse onto it, which I do not recommend for safety reasons.)

You can also check continuity of the cord reel from here. On the right hand side of the board are two spade terminals leading to wires running down into the cord reel assembly. One black, one white. Checking the continuity between these terminals and the ends of the power supply cord will allow you to determine if the cord reel is providing power to the machine.

Accessing the cord reel will require you to remove the six Torx screws holding the main body to the base. Two of these are on the rear of the machine, and are very deep inside; so you will require a very long-shanked Torx driver to get at these. Two more are inside the bag chamber at the rear, and the other two are on the front handle assembly. This will allow you to lift the main body away from the base, and if you are replacing the cord reel you can pull the wires from the spade terminals and the socket on the sumo board, and feed them back down into the cord reel chamber to remove the old cord reel.

Reassembly is simply a reverse of the previous. Beware, however: getting the cord reel to align is something of a chore, so make sure that you have the retraction system functioning before you put the whole thing back together, or you'll be bummed when you finish reassembly and the cord won't retract.
(I've definitely never done that. Nope. Never.)

Hope that helps, good luck.

-R