Whirlpool LER8648P Electric Dryer Logo
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
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I have a whirlpool LER8648PWO dryer that runs but doesnt heat. What could be the problem and where would you look first?

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  • runnerbl Jul 17, 2009

    Have looked at breaker. It looked fine but reset anyways. That didn't fix the problem. Will get someone to check the other items in your link. Are these components easy to distinguish? thanks for all your help.

  • runnerbl Jul 17, 2009

    Have looked at breaker. It looked fine but reset anyways. That didn't fix the problem. Will get someone to check the other items in your link. Are these components easy to distinguish? thanks for all your help.

  • runnerbl Jul 17, 2009

    Have looked at breaker. It looked fine but reset anyways. That didn't fix the problem. Will get someone to check the other items in your link. Are these components easy to distinguish? thanks for all your help.

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  • Posted on Jul 17, 2009
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The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer not heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked or clogged exhaust vent ducting. Pay particular attention to the section that discusses ventilation and make sure your dryer interior and ducting are clean. Leaving a dryer in a clogged condition will not only decrease the drying efficiency of the appliance, it will also cause repeated failures of any components you may replace and is a fire hazard.

The first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If you have any questions about this repair, or require additional assistance please let me know.

  • Anonymous Jul 17, 2009

    The components are easily identifiable. On your dryer all you have to do is unplug it and remove the back panel. The heating circuits are on the lower right hand side (as viewed from the rear). The heating element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the outside of the heater box. The TCO is at the end opposite the heating element terminal (top of the heater box), while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is adjacent to the heating element terminal.



    You can view an exploded view diagram of your dryer at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead Parts" heading. The TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat repair kit is listed as item 5 (Part # 279816). Both components are included and should be replaced if one or the other is found to be defective. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. The heating element is listed as item 17 (Part #279818). In the majority of the cases, the TCO fails due to overheating. NOTE: When you type in your model number, the last character is a zero, not an "O".



    Other sites you can check are appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com. Sometimes these sites may offer better prices. Just use the part numbers listed above.



    I hope this helps you.

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  • Posted on Aug 17, 2009
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You electrical outlet gives out to you only 110, to correct the problem have the electrician correct the wired contention to the backer, it has to be crossed, not direct, look into the book if you have done it your self :-)))))) fire the electrician who fixed the hookup! Good Luck

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Sep 11, 2009

SOURCE: Whirlpool dryer works but will not tumble

It sounds like the belt is broken. Take a look a the video at this link and see if it helps you. Sure hope so and best wishes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dd1Ac4_pXY

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