After self cleaning the lower oven remained locked..finally had to disconnect and then reconnect. Now the ovens won't heat.
SOURCE: Electric Oven doen't heat
cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: GE JTP56 Double Oven
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SOURCE: Ge wall oven blinking door locked for days
The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked. the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.
SOURCE: Self-Clean gets too hot on JTP56 double-oven
Your husband is correct, kind of. You should not try self clean again until you get the oven repaired. You have a temp sensor going out. I doubt that the oven actually got too hot, most likely the resistor in the sensor is failing as it heats up and giving a false temp reading.Since the lower oven was operating at the time, it is probably the sensor in the lower oven. Don't use it for baking until you get it repaired. It will go out completely and shut down both ovens. You should be able to get a new sensor for around $30 and they are not hard to replace.
The oven won't set your house on fire during clean mode if the cabinets were built with the correct air space and dimensions, but they do get very hot, about 800 degrees F. Most ovens give no trouble during the clean cycle, but if there is any weak components in the electronics system it will show up then. It will give you less trouble over time if you don't use the self clean mode and just manually clean it.
SOURCE: "door lock" light stays on and oven won't work
Same problems. When I removed the lock operating arm nothing happened. Motor is not operating. I've temporarily kluged it by tying the "unlock" (upper) switch circuit together and disconnecting one side of the power to the "locked" (lower) switch. At least we'll have an oven to use, but I'll have to come back and remove the lock motor assembly to find out what's really wrong.
BTW, if some knows those keyed-in service codes they could be useful.
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