It keeps blowing fuses - two 12 inch cls subs 1

Maybe power amplifier end module broken this could be an powerpack ic or transistor output stage cause of shortcircuit or even bad capacitors.

my fuse keeps poppin everytime i put a new one when i turn it on how can i fix dat?

Hi,
The compressor has locked up and will not start...this is terminal and will cost more to replace it then the unit is worth...
unfortunately you will have to replace the unit with a new one...

heatman101

something is shorted or maybe the sub is blown chec all wires, then check sub

I once rigged and old audio vox 8 inch sub into a box for a 12 inch cerwin vega had the same issue i just stepped the fuse from a 15amp to a 35amp had no problems after that.-z (you could also just solder the two wires for the fuse holder together if you have them eliminate the fuse or put a bigger fuse in).-z

More than likely the power supply switching transistors have fried. Also check the large caps in the primary side of the power supply. If you don't know what your are doing do not attempt to fix the power supply.. very dangerous voltages involved !!! Send it to Klipsch for repair or purchase a Bash replacement panel http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-750

there is an underlying cause for the fuse to blow. if something shorts out you would rather a 40 cent peice goes then the unit causing a fire. disassembly is require... look for obvious burnt parts first.

Robert

good day, check your spkr impedance, if 4oms use a posive spkr dividing network. if stills blows up replace a higher amperage of your fuse. ex.4A raise it up to 5A. the your amps consume higier current if more spkr wattage.

just run str8 pos and negative

Hi,

The fuse blows when the current that passes through it are beyond its rating. This could be brought about by excessive consumption of the load, in this case the amplifier powering the sub-woofer.

Repairs would involve component level and require that you be familiar with electronic components and circuitry, use of a DVM and a soldering iron. Often it is just the finals that needs to be replaced. Of course we cannot discount the possibility of other components or section such as the power supply.

The smoke indicates something heating up such as a resistor or diode or a capacitor.

Should you be uncomfortable opening the unit and doing a DIY (do-it-yourself), then perhaps you need to seek the services of a qualified professional.

Should the downtime and cost of repair be no longer economically reasonable, purchase of a new unit might save you further trouble.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

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