I would like to find out the model name and the value with just the serial number and a picture

Jon has told you about the serial number.

Don't get Fender Fenders confused with Squier Fenders either.

Once you know the serial number you should be able to find out the year here

http://www.guitardaterproject.org/fender.aspx

Then you could try Googling:

"reverb.com Fender Jazz Bass (year)"

and you will see a range of used prices.

The guitar was made at the Saein Plant, Korea in February, 2005.

Depending on the exact model number and condition, it would sell for approx US$600-900. They are quite well regarded.

This is a list of All the parts you need, I don't know about a schematic?

1 Maple Neck ? 1 11" wood rim ? 1 11" notched tension hoop ? 1 Flat head alloy tone ring (Optional bell brass available) ? 1 Resonator (not included in the open back kit) ? 1 11" Remo frosted banjo head ? 1 Arm Rest ? 2 Coordinator rods with hanger bolts (one longer than the other) ? 1 "L" shaped tailpiece bracket (may be attached to coordinator rods) ? 1 5th string nut ? 4 Guitar style tuners (planetary tuners optional) ? 1 Geared 5th string tuning machines ? 24 Shoe style lugs with bolts and washers ? 24 Hooks and nuts ? 1 Nut, pre notched ? 4 Resonator plates ? 4 Brass inserts (brass anchors that are threaded on the inside) ? 4 Resonator bolts (knurled on the outside with a Phillips screwdriver receiver on top) ? 1 5 string bridge ? 1 Gary Price style Tailpiece ? 1 Set of strings ? 22 Pre-cut (ready to install) frets ? 1 Truss rod cover (including three screws)

This is from the Peavey website. It indicates a date between 2001-2003. I found a date from another source indicating 2003. They Fury IV is a nice instrument!

"Offset double cutaway solid body, 21-frets, Quilted Maple top, solid maple neck with rosewood fingerboard, two VFL internally-active pickups, 3-band active EQ, single master volume, mid, bass, and treble controls, satin chrome hardware, available in Trans. Red, Trans. Blue, Trans. Green, or Sunburst finish, 34 in. scale, mfg. 2001-2003"

There is further info available from Peavey: http://www.bluebookofguitarvalues.com/Electric_Guitar_Values/Manufacturers/PEAVEY/Categories/ELECTRIC_BASS__FURY_SERIES/Models/FURY_4_QUILT_TOP?id=PEAVEY_ELECTRIC_BASS_FURY_SERIES_FURY_4_QUILT_TOP

This sounds like a worn nut groove. The string is sitting too low. Does the buzz happen all the way up the neck or just on open string?

Taken from http://www.learnguitarsetups.com


There are a few golden rules when adjusting your truss rod. First, only use the rod to keep your neck as straight as it needs to be...do not use it to adjust your action! Second, only use the proper tools. If you do not know what the proper tool is, check with the manufacturer. Truss rod nuts are easy to strip, and once they're stripped, they are expensive to fix! Finally, do not force anything; an eighth of a turn can make a drastic change. Remember, if the truss rod feels tight or doesn't seem to be doing anything, take it to a professional.

1. Start by sitting with the guitar in the playing position.
2. Tune it to pitch if it is not already.
3. Capo the first fret. If you do not own a capo, you can use your fretting hand.
4. Next, fret the bass string with your picking hand up near where the neck joins the body. This is typically around the 14th fret, but it may be higher up with some electric guitars. In our example, we'll be using the 20th fret.
5. Use the string as a straightedge held against the neck which will either bow away, or against the string. This is how you determine the amount of relief in the neck. You can also use a steel ruler placed along the length of the neck, in the same manor.
6. In our example, the approximate half way point between the 20th fret and the 1st, will be the 7th fret where we will observe the distance between the top of that fret and the bottom of the string (or ruler), as pictured. Notice the gap. Hint: Half way down the neck is often between the 7th-9th frets.
7. If you have a gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string, you likely have a bowed neck. If there is no gap, it is likely either dead straight or back-bowed.

HOW MUCH TO ADJUSTThe bigger the gap, the more relief is in the neck. Normally, we want just a small amount of relief in the neck for optimal playing, about the same as the thickness of a business card or less.

If there is a gap, tighten the truss rod clockwise until you have something closer to what we're after. Slide a business card in between the top of fret and bottom of the string (or ruler). Make sure you are placing the card parallel with the string or ruler. If there is no gap, you may be either dead straight or back bowed, so you will need to loosen the truss rod counter-clockwise to get the results we are after. Hint: If the strings are buzzing in the first few frets and open strings, it is often a clear indication of a back bow.

Remember, do not force anything to get the results you are after. If it is hard to adjust or spins freely you may need professional assistance.

The final step in setting your relief is to test it out! If it feels better, you're done! But take note, straightening the neck may actually make your guitar play worse! Consequently, when the truss rod is tightened, the height of the strings are lowered, which can create string buzz if your guitar isn't setup properly to start. Likewise, it can make a poor fret condition more noticeable. So, if your guitar plays worse after adjusting the neck, it is either too straight for your playing style, or it is a sign that more work is needed. Thankfully, you can easily reverse the changes you've just made if required.



For pictures and further info, visit www.learnguitarsetups.com

See if the neck is twisted at all. Might need a truss rod adjustment, or dressing on the frets.

Check first it is not hitting or touching the next few frets, in case they are high. Or maybe the 5th fret is low. You could raise the action and/or adjust the neck relief to test this.

If it is not a fret problem, it may be a real dead spot on your bass. If so, it would be regardless of the pickup used and could be heard acoustically if you could hear notes that low easily. Most guitars have notes on the fretboard somwhere that are a little dead. It is due to destructive interference and there is not much that can be done. To happen at the 5th fret is unusual though. Make sure the string is wound properly around the head, and that nothing is loose and actually moving/buzzing when you play the note.
Other causes can be a loose fret, loose bridge parts or a loose neck joint.

These often use a special Allen wrench. It is easy to damage the neck.

I would recommend taking it to a guitar place/shop and have them evaluate that the neck is the problem. There are other problems such as the bridge that can cause this.

If the neck of the guitar is a bolt on neck (their will be a plate holding the neck onto the body of the guitar with several screws) then this is typical. Some strings will give off small vibrations. Nothing is wrong with the guitar, usually with a string change or with time the tone will fade as the strings change to the shape.

Hope this helps,
-Aaron C.