Question about Frigidaire Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like the TOD may be at fault. can you supply me with the model # on your stove please?
as far as the popping sound, that would the spark module.
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
SOURCE: Oven not working properly
I just solved this problem with my GE gas range. I waited forever for the oven to warm up. The igniter would glow, light the burner and burn for a minute or so and go out. It would repeat this process till oven reached operating temp, which took forever. Problem is in the igniter. It may be glowing, but it is not letting the gas valve stay open, because it is not hot enough to create resistance in it to keep gas valve open. I had replaced the thermostat thinking it was the problem. The good part about it was I could take it back because my buddy works at supply house. Once the igniter was replaced, the oven fired up and stayed lit till operating temp was reached. It will also hold the oven temp much better. Oh yea, the igniter will stay glowing while the burner is on. Hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
Yes it could be the thermostat, but what you need to find out and it is difficult to do, is determine what is cutting your gas back off.
The thermostat could be doing that but the most likely cause is the ignitor.
The amount of electric going through hte ignitor is what tells the gas valve to stay on. When the ignitor gets old it does not pull enough power anymore. The the burner lights for a bit and then cuts out before it should giving you some heat but not enough. It just sits there and cycles...
You can find parts for your unit by doing a search for “appliance parts”.
Once you get the results of the search, pick a site and when it comes up it will usually ask for the model number of your unit.
Enter your model number and you will then get a page with exploded views and a parts menu.
Find the part you need and then order it.
Check a few different sites to be sure that you are getting the best pricing.
Most sites can have the part to you in a couple of days.
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
Thanks for using Fixya!!
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
Testimonial: "Tips were helpful and response was very quick."
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
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Posted on Feb 26, 2010
Testimonial: "This advise seems right on. Thanks for your fast and detailed advise. Steve"
We had the same thing happen and now they came and said it was the clock that needs to be replaced. They said that controls the oven. Even though clock is on and working the function for turning on the oven is not
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
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