Kenmore stackable it says model# 417.97822701 it spins but wont agitate. What can be the cause?

SOURCE: agitated with my agitator and spin cycle

Your problem could be with your transmission, which is located directly above the drive belt pulley under the wash tub. If they go bad, your motor will still function normally, but the wash tub will not spin or agitate. Now, another possible problem could be a nail or screw stuck in one of the wash basket holes pressing against the outer tub. I have personally seen this a couple of times. A dry wall screw or nail will stop the wash tub from spinning and cause the drive belt to smoke as the motor pulley turns, but the belt stays stationary. That could be the source of your smell. If you're a do-it-yourselfer or do a lot of carpentry work, you may have washed some clothes with a nail or screw in them. Inspect all the holes in the wash basket throughly. A nail or screw can easily be missed if your not looking for it. I hope this may help you.

SOURCE: Agitator not spinning

could'be water level switch or timer control. another posibility is corrosion on the motor wiring connector

SOURCE: Agitator not turning during cycle

Well, it sounds like you've done your homework. My first suspect would have been the agitator dogs too, but you said they were fine. Another likely suspect would have been the motor coupler, but you said the washer spins during the spin cycle. If the coupler was bad the unit would fill, but wouldn't agitate or spin. Plus, it would make an awful noise. I would have also suspected a clutch assembly, but you said the wash tub can spin. Normally, when the clutch goes bad, the drum won't spin, or spins slow. Another suspect could have been a bad lid switch, but the washer would have filled and stopped, without agitating or spinning. The only remaining suspect that I'm aware of is the gear case (transmission). Checking under the washer can give you some clues. Normally, when a gear case starts to go bad, they leak an amber colored oil. You may find puddles or drips under the washer. If you see no signs of oil the gear case could still be defective, however. But, before you go through all the trouble, double check the agitator one more time. Completely remove it from the tub and check the under side to ensure the grooves that grip the top of the gear case shaft have not been worn smooth. I hope this may have been some help to you.

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Washer Spin Cycle Only issue.

It sounds like one of two things 1,A worn clutch .or 2.motor coupler is about gone,

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 series won't agitate, spin or drain

hello there,
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.













Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

• Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.



• The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline