Wolf generator engine wont switch off

Microwaves need specialist repair. Take it to a Sub Zero, Wolf Service Centre or replace with MS24.

https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens

Replace Standard Microwave Model MW24 with Model MS24

https://www.subzero-wolf.com > wolf > microwave-ovens
Find answers online to your Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Cove customer service questions here. Read about Replace Standard Microwave Model MW24 with Model MS24.

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What kind of noise is it making and where from?

Generator Guru
GeneratorGuru.co.uk

Locate where the choke lever is for your generator (under the petrol tank), you ought to notice a star headed shaped screw connected to the governor shaft (if you bend and look closely further beyond the choke lever; still under the petrol tank) which is linked to the carburettor housing/assembly. You need to increase/turn clockwise (using a star screwdriver) on this screw.

Your generator engine sound will change/high a bit because the engine speed will increase.

Reconnect your 1800w chop saw (load) and see if your generator can "effortlessly" accommodate it without shutting down otherwise, increae the turns on this adjustment screw attached to the governor shaft till your generator operates/stabilizes with the load (1800w) connected

Check out the ignition coil? How about the on/off switch for turning off generator - if stuck on off there will be no ignition.

its may be overloaded

might have bad ignition switch. have had one do the same thing and when switch starting getting warm it would dead short out.

ghkgk

Check the fuel filter if any.  

Well, ours is working now. We called Wolf, they said the Error 01 indicated a problem with the latching mechanism (that locks the oven during self clean).

We called the local repair outfit (they've been here several times before working on this range), they ordered a latch mechanism and arrived today to install it. The tech this time had worked at an electronic company that I also worked for about 10 years ago (I'm an electrical engineer). So we had a good time talking about the old days and working on the range - I'm always curious about such things. We removed the latching mechanism - its an assembly with a motor and a couple of switches that are used to start and stop the motor. We tested the switches and motor using a meter and power cord. Seemed to be OK. The next thing would be the control board - which we had replaced about 3 years ago - under warranty. Before removing the control board we reinstalled the latch mechanism - and, of course, everything worked fine.

We were both a little dismayed about the quality of the assembly of the range - the wiring looks more like a rat's nest than the tidy routing that we'd like to see.

So, bottom line, neither of us knows what the problem was. Could have been a food particle lodged in the switching mechanism, an intermittent connection or ???.

One thing I noticed as we checked out both ovens: We put the small oven (the one that was having problems) in self clean for a couple of minutes - was OK. Then we turned it off and turned the larger oven to clean mode - when we did that, "OPP" appeared on the display. The tech said that was because the latch of the smaller oven was not in its stop position yet. We gave it a few more seconds then tried clean mode on the other oven and it was fine. I mention that because OPP appeared on the small oven once or twice when we (my wife and I) were initially trying to figure out what the problem was. There's probably a hint in there somewhere as to what the real problem was.

At any rate, its working again ($115 later) but I'm not real confident that it will continue. Next time, I'll open it up myself (not recommended). <g>.