Change power lead from right side to left

Don't know how handy you are but the biggest reason for microwave failure is a diode (HV) between ground and the lead to the magnatron. usually mounted low down low on the right side of the unit. Also, there are about three microswitches in the door closing latches to make sure the door is properly closed. Sometimes they come loose or fracture the mount. then of course there is the Magnatron its self. I save them from old units. They are different wattages but physically the same and simple to change. Good luck.

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Don't know how handy you are but the biggest reason for microwave failure is a diode (HV) between ground and the lead to the magnatron. usually mounted low down low on the right side of the unit. Also, there are about three microswitches in the door closing latches to make sure the door is properly closed. Sometimes they come loose or fracture the mount. then of course there is the Magnatron its self. I save them from old units. They are different wattages but physically the same and simple to change. Good luck.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

I am assuming you are referring to a conventional stove. First shut off power to the stove at the breaker panel. (either a 40 or 50 amp breaker). Check to see if the elements come on before proceeding.
Slide out stove and unplug it. Look on the back. There will be a vertical piece of sheet metal with 1 to 3 screws or a large flat panel with several screws (1/4 Inch socket). Remove this panel to reveal the leads to the bake element.
remove the leads. Then remove the two screws inside the stove (1/4 inch socket) to remove element. The model and serial for the stove should be located by sliding the drawer out at the bottom of the stove on the left side.
You will need this number for the correct element. They run about 20 dollars typically. Hope this helps.

theres a fuse located on the right hand side just behind the clock on the side ,,
take it to any maplins electronic store and replace about £1.50 if this fuse blows when you change it bin your microwave

It is indeed straightforward but it requires removing the 4 phillips head screws that hold the trim kit on. Then you need to remove it from the cabinet (along with unplugging the cord.) Once that is done you will need to remove the 4 black phillips head screws along the bottom part of each side, 2 phillips from the left rear and 2 security T20 screws from the right side. I found that removing the 2 screws holding the bracket on the capacitor and the front allowed me to move the light housing enough to get to the bulb. In my case the bulb had unscrewed itself. I am not a big fan of the engineering associated with this model or the labor that assembled it.

You need to change the cavity thermostat. The unit got too hot and blew the cavity thermostat. If this is a vent-a-hood model, it will be up under the vent housing at the top (must drop microwave to change) and if built-in, it will be on the left side under the outer cover. Just remove the screws from the back and sides and right along the edge along the bottom sides. Will have 2 wires going to it from each side. Just replace thermostat and reattach molex plugs. Then retest. Should be fine after that.

Grease filters change from the bottom side of the unit.

Charcoal filter is changed as follows:
To Remove Charcoal Filter
To remove the charcoal filter, disconnect power
at the main fuse or circuit breaker panel or
pull the plug.
Remove the top grille by removing the screws
that hold it in place and sliding the grille to the
left (opening the door makes grille removal
easier). Slide the filter towards the front of the
oven and remove it.
To Install Charcoal Filter
To install a new filter, remove plastic and other
outer wrapping from the new filter.
Insert the filter into the top opening of the oven as
shown. It will rest at an angle on 2 side support tabs
and in front of the right rear tab. Replace the grille
and screws.

I have the same problem. The left one burns out within a couple of hours use, the other one lasts a couple of months and is then gone. This pattern has repeated over 8 years. I replace them every now and then and then just go without until I get the urge again to fix it. Maybe smaller lower wattage lamps are worth trying...

Simply use Safety. Unplug. Use Continuity Buzzer, Meter ( With Continuity Tone ). Can Use Meter if You Have & Watch, Check By AC Power Cord Fuse. Use a 500 Ohm to 5000 ohm Resistor on two Insulated clip leads with screwdrivers and Find the Hi-Voltage Capacitor ( Large Metal with Leads and a Diode on it. Short the Condenser from one side to another to BLEED any Voltage left Charged in the Condenser. Newer Microwaves have a Bleeder Resistor 10 MegOhms Built in. But Just do this for Backup/Sure Safety. Will Probally Just find a Blown 15-20 amp fuse ( Electrical Surge ). Any one of the 3 Door switches that DONT open-Close Smoothly Will Blow Fuse. ( Intermittent, Burnt, Skipping, Hanging up ). A Shorted Hi-Voltage Capacitor or Diode Will Blow Fuse. Open in Series Protection device may have opened because of Overload or Surge. These are Metal and loop in-Out AC Line and are Mounted ( Heat Sinked to Metal case ).

Safety first, unplug your microwave from socket outlet.Needs to troubleshoots series of components using eliminating method to know which component(s) that causes breaker to trip off. It is obvious that a componet(s) "shorted out".Remove your fuse and replace it with resetable breaker tested.
Remove leads of the transformer output(secondary side). plug power cord run the microwave.If does not trip off the cct breaker change your transformer. do the same to capacitor lead, one after the other until you discover which component that shorted and cause your cct breaker to trip off.