How do i fix my infinity entra 10 inch 150 watt powered subwoofer. fuse is good, green led is on so it is getting power

Hi.

The Jensen XS-1010 is a 450-Watt 10" (450W peak, 150W RMS ) Subwoofer.

Below the full technical specifications:

Tech Specs

Product Type - Car subwoofer driver

Dimensions (WxDxH) / Weight - Car subwoofer driver : 4.7 in Diameter 10.1 in

Dimensions - Diameter - 10.1 in

Enclosure Color - Blue

Localization - English

Speaker Type - Passive

Speaker Diameter - 10"

Nominal (RMS) Output Power - 150 Watt

Max (RMS) Output Power - 450 Watt

Response Bandwidth - 24 - 1000 Hz

Input Impedance - 4 Ohm

Output Level (SPL) - 88 dB

Connectivity Technology - Wired

Speakers Included - Car subwoofer driver - 10" - 150 Watt - 24 - 1000 Hz - 4 Ohm - wired

Driver Details - Car subwoofer driver : 1 x subwoofer driver - 10" - polypropylene - Mid-Q

Diameter - 9 in

Depth - 4.4 in

hi.

if it is 150 watts TOTAL power then you should use a 15 amp fuse.
(150w / 12v = 12.5amps, 15amp fuse should provide the correct protection.)

if the system is 150 watts PER CHANNEL. then it will be 300 watts total and a 30 amp fuse should be used.
(300w / 12v = 25 amps. 30amp fuse should be used.)

30 amp is normally the highest fuse recommended for an car audio system, so i would not use higher than this without taking the unit to a qualified auto electrician, to get the system checked for safety. if you have any further questions please feel free to ask.

Please read the article here and also your owner manual:
http://lcdrepair.us/E228WFPc-inverter-power.html

At my home, I got more bass when it is in the corner of the room.

check the ground and your remote wires

This is an 150 RMS amp, but the ratings say it'll push 2 10's.
You probably won't get much out of that amp with a 1230 watt subwoofer.
The subwoofer you are wanting to run is 300 RMS, so you'll get half the power you could be pulling. But it would do okay I guess. Nothing like what you could get with a different amp though. You need like a 1000 watt amp to get the most out of your sub. But "YES" you can use them together.

Hello jmw3031,

The Basslink should have both a red power LED and a green servo LED. The red LED should be on when power is applied. The green servo LED should only come on during high-level bass transients. Turn the gain down slightly if it stays on for extended periods.

Hope this helps.

I had the same problem. When I opened it up, the fuse was blown, and it was a pain to find the fuse it needs (3 Amp, 250 V slow-blow fuse, 5x20 mm). Also, the 2 large electrolytics (big purple things near the amp) and one small capacitor were all blown. For 4 fuses, bought seperately from, and the 2 electrolytics and 1 capacitor, it cost about $20, plus almost 20 more in shipping, which still isnt bad considering the original price of the sub. However, the tricky part is that you have to know how to use a soldering iron to take out the old components and put in the new ones.

invest in a multi meter if you want to test or diy electronics and as to repair or replace that would be up to what is wrong

that remote wire has to be hooked up to the power or the radio power antenna wire which will switch the remote wire on when the radio is turned on, so that remote wire really should be hooked to the radio wire that gets power when the radio is turned on , thats why the sub is not turning on

electech

The hum can be from the power supply not properly filtering, and or the output stage also has a short.

There is the chance that the speaker driver coil is now burned, or the power supply is now dead. If ther output stage is shorted and was putting DC on to the speaker cone, this will burn it very easily.

You should sent the unit out and have it serviced, unless you are properly trained, have the service and engineering manuals, and the test equipment to follow up on a proper repair and calibration.

Jerry G.