Yes
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Front Load Washer...F02 and SUD not draining!!!!
Had same problem. Followed advice on post (i.e., remove bottom panel three screws, unscrew filter cap (have lots of towels cause it will drain), remove filter and voila!). Found one sock, a quarter, and some other junk clogging the drain. Saved $55 house service call. Thanks all!
SOURCE: How Do I replace the
Here ya go, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite
Read through the instructions thoroughly before starting. This is a fairly straight forward and simple repair job. If you require further assistance, go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker response. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: kenmore elite HE4T front load washing machine standing water
This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.
Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.
Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
SOURCE: kenmore elite quiet pak 4 ''suds'' error
I also gots suds error and then "F"?
my clothes were soaked....i can't get the machine to drain now????
SOURCE: elite front-load washer error code F22 then F28
This is an indication of a door latch failure and/or interconnecting wiring problem. The first step in troubleshooting the problem is to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of your washing machine. Sometimes these error codes are erroneous and can be easily cleared by resetting the CCU. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem. In addition, if the door latch remains locked following this procedure, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. Follow these steps:
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with a 2 x 4, it makes access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
If you still have the error code displayed, inspect the door latch mechanism for any broken, loose, or missing components. Next, open the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the door latch on the right hand side behind the front panel. Inspect the wiring harness from the door latch to the to CCU. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the top rear of the washer. Make sure all the connectors are snug and not loose or broken. In the majority of cases, a persistent error is a failed door latch. If all these preliminary checks are unsuccessful, replace the door latch. Follow these steps:
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
NOTE: Another method is to access behind the front panel from the top with the top panel removed. Either method works, but I have found that going through the front offers better access.
F28 is a serial bus error from the CCU (Central Control Unit) to the MCU (Motor Control Unit).
All you need is some Electronics contact cleaner spray and a 1/4 inch socket to remove the top of the machine and the back of the machine.
The CCU is the computer looking box at the top front right hand corner.
Find connector M13, (has red marking on it and only 3 wires) disconnect it by pushing the retainer tab back and pulling gently on the connector.
Spray the contacts of the connector and computer with connector cleaner.
Then re-assemble connector.
The MCU is in the back lower left corner.
Find the connector with 3 wires and red mark, and remove this connector in the same way you did the other, spray it and re-install.
Put the back and top back on.
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