Removing carburetor from emgine. Do I have to remove the two long studs (with male TORX on end from engine before I can remove the carburetor? Model 204412-0156-E2

Tools required:

Allen wrench
7/16-inch socket driver
Needle-nose pliers
Approved fuel container
Scissors
Work gloves
Wire coat hanger
paper towels or shop rags
approx. 30 minutes

1. Drain the fuel tank

   Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
   In a well-ventilated area, remove the fuel cap and empty the fuel tank into an approved storage container.
   Open the fuel cap.
2. 02.

   Remove the cylinder shield

   
   Using an Allen wrench, remove the screws that hold the cylinder shield to the engine. Lift off the shield.
   Remove the cylinder shield.
3. 03.

   Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the air filter

   
   Disconnect the wire from the spark plug. Pull the cover off the air filter housing and remove the filter.
   Disconnect the spark plug wire.
   Remove the air filter cover.
   Remove the air filter.
4. 04.

   Remove the fuel filter

   
   Straighten a piece of coat hanger and bend a hook on the end. Feed it through the mouth of the tank and fish out the white cylindrical fuel filter. Cut the fuel line to remove the filter.
5. 05.

   Remove the carburetor

   
   Using a 7/16-inch socket driver, remove the 2 mounting nuts that secure the carburetor to the engine.
   Pull the air filter housing off the carburetor.
   Pull the carburetor from the engine block, sliding it along the mounting studs. Be careful not to bend the throttle linkage or damage the gas lines
   
6. Remove the mounting nuts. Remove the air filter housing.
   Pull the carburetor off the mounting studs.
   
7. 06.

   Remove the old fuel lines

   
   Pull the fuel lines off the carburetor and primer bulb, using needle-nose pliers.
   Use needle-nose pliers to pull the fuel lines out of the gas tank.
   Tip: With some chainsaw models, you'll have to remove the screws from the primer bulb to detach the fuel lines.
   Pull the fuel lines off of the carburetor.
   Pull the fuel lines off of the primer bulb.
   Pull the fuel lines out of the gas tank.
   
8. 07.

   Install the new fuel lines

   
   Use a pair of scissors to cut the new fuel lines at an angle to thread them into the tank. Push the large line about 1 inch into the tank.
   Push the small line far enough into the tank so that it can be grabbed through the mouth of the tank with needle-nose pliers.
   Pull the small line out the mouth of the tank. Cut the end square and install the fuel filter. Pull the line back in so the filter rests on the bottom of the tank. Trim the fuel lines and connect them to the carburetor
9. .
10. Cut the end of the new fuel lines at an angle. Fuel line cut at an angle.
    
11. 08.

    Install the fuel filter

    
    Pull the small line out the mouth of the tank. Cut the end square and install the fuel filter. Pull the line back in so the filter rests on the bottom of the tank. Trim the fuel lines and connect them to the carburetor.
12. 09.

    Reinstall the carburetor

    
    Slip the carburetor onto the mounting studs and push it into place. Position the air filter housing on the protruding studs.
    Replace the mounting nuts and tighten them to seal the gasket between the engine and the carburetor.
    
    Tip: Avoid crimping the fuel lines when re-installing the carburetor.
13. 10.

    Reinstall the air filter cover and connect the spark plug

    
    Position the air filter in the housing and replace the cover. Reattach the spark plug wire.
14. 11.

    Reinstall the cylinder shield

    
    Reinstall the cylinder shield on the chainsaw.
    Refill the fuel tank.

No, you do not have to remove the engine mount adapter. If you raise the vehicle up you can remove the nut, stud, and the spacer from the adapter to get the belt off. You'll need an inverted torx socket to remove the stud. You may have to remove the right front wheel and the side engine cover to gain access to the nut, spacer, and stud. Once you get the belt on and if you find it hard to get the spacer back in, you can grind a little off the end of the spacer so you can slide it in between the adapter and the engine block.

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws hoding the cover to the engine. You will now have unlimited access.

if htis is the zetec engine then its quite simple ,just slacken and remove the fan belt by turning tensioner with a spanner clockwuase and this will release the tension so belt can be slipped off.then their is one bolt and two nuts ,remove the bolt and then the nuts on teh two studs ,then with a torx socket remove the long studs that had the nuts on and it comes off quite easy

If this model is a weed trimmer, the instructions follow.
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed.

No. You have to remove one bolt and stud. Go thru the wheel well and look to the right of the crank pulley. You will see an 18 mm nut. Remove the nut, then remove the stud with an inverted torx bit if it doesn't come out with the nut. Then remove the spacer that the stud went thru, and then the belt will come off.

Hey Liv. You have to place a floor jack under the engine oil pan and support the engine. Now you have to remove the engine mount on the passenger end of the engine. you will need a 18mm wrench and some inverted torx bit sockets as the lower stud has to be removed to allow the mount to be removed. The two 18mm bolts will be really tight and should be tightened so when reinstalled. Remove the long bolt that goes thru the mount horizontally also. now you can remove the belt with the 18mm wrench on the tensioner. study the belt routing and remove it. install the new belt and reinstall the mount in reverse order. good luck and don't get hurt loosening the bolts. use gloves if you can.

that is not an idler pully that is the power steering pully if you feel through the holes in the pully you will feel the 13 mm head bolts that hold the pump to the block remove those bolts the pump will drop down and you can then remove the water pump also you have to remove the studs using the inverted torx end on the stud to unscrew it then the mount will come out

Good Day,


See the pic's