OVEN WILL WORK WHEN THE FRONT AND SIDE COVERS ARE OFF BUT HEAT UP TO TEMP WHEN THEY ARE ON BY DROP TEMP AFTER A LITTLE BIT AND WILL NOT HOLD TEMP

What jim said is right. plus clean the front vent. take off bottom front panel and clean all the little round holes. also if its dirty inside everything runs hotter(which makes the EC get warm faster) and dirt gets on the little wire(it's about 4" long coming from the main 40 pin connector0 that monitors the EC temp(clean it). sometimes the fan starts to get weak and doesn't cool properly. also, unplug oven, take side panel off and clean it as well. there are vents on it that get clogged. while it's unplugged clean the inside. I use a paint brush and shop van. just be careful not to hit wires or knock wires off. this will all help a bit but that fan will still run a lot anyway.

I found the answer on other posts on this website and it saved me $500! I had the same problem with my Dacor Model ECD2278 double oven. After I ran the self cleaning the top oven would not come on and the lower oven ran almost double the temp that was set. To fix: disconnect power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Open the oven door. You'll see the grille/grate/steel cover in front of the door latch mechanism, and it should have about 4 screws holding it in place. Remove the screws then remove the grille cover. On my model the tiny red reset button was on the right side on top of a black plastic round piece which is about 1" in diameter. Press the little button down til it clicks.

you may need to change the oven temp probe.or the main electronic control board

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1, If the fan motor in the back of the oven is going round and the temperature light is on (normally little red light), but there is no heat then you will probably need a new oven element, these are generally very easy to fit and readily available from our website these can be tested with a electric meter.
To gain access to the NEFF element you will have to remove the back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see the fan and element, if you look closely at the element you will probably see a small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however there is no evidence of a fault but the element is open circuit ie: broken inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some elements will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts from the rear of the machine.
2, If your NEFF fan oven is getting warm but takes a very long time to cook or is burning the food more on one side than the other, then you need to check if your oven fan motor is working you will see the blade turning fast if it is ok. if the element is heating but the fan motor is not blowing the heat into the oven then you need To replace the oven fan motor is a little more expensive and a bit more involved.
3. If you have the opposite problem ie: your oven is over heating and burning everything then you will need to replace your NEFF oven thermostat
4, A quite common and easily overlooked answer is if your NEFF oven is not working at all ie: no heat and no fan then the chances are that someone has put the oven timer into AUTO mode, simply put oven back to MANUAL mode and all should be working again.

Normally you should have an appliance spare parts supplier in your area. They generally stock all range of spares for all appliances. You need to pull plug out of the wall and remove the panel covering the wiring to gain access to the oven thermostat. Look carefully on the body of the thermostat and record any numbers you see on a sticker that's present. Then remove knob off in front of thermostat and see if there is a nut attached to the centre which holds the thermostat in position or if there are 2 screws holding the thermostat in place. Use this information to order the thermostat also quoting the oven model number.

The switches on the first circcuit card mounted horizontally in the space above the microwave enclosure and behind the control pannel have burned to the point that they no longer engage properly to close the power to the oven heating elements. I do not know anyone who has removed the plastic covers and cleaned them to the point of working again properly and do not recommend trying that approach. The only sure solution is to replace the circuit card that has the three switches.

like another person stated-from the front behind the door, take off the 6 screws and the cover by the latch. there is an "oven hi temp limit switch" It is crome with 2 heavy black wires connected to it. On the back side of this is a small red button which will reset the limit switch. I had the same issue (everything worked except the any of the heating elements) and quickly resolved.

This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what they would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day of frustration I decided to tackle the problem myself.

The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!

The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.

This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!

For about $50 and a little work you will save yourself from $150 to $250. Not to mention the repairmen won't have a clue as to what the problem is or who will attempt to sell you a new front panel or perform other unnecessary work.

After it drops temperature, how do you get it back to the desired degrees? It sounds like the thermostat isn't keeping up.