Red light flashing in freezer on control panel for ice maker, also making frequent noises, a soft tone followed by a ping. Top shelf in fridge is getting a bit too cold tho.

john gagnon

• 943 Answers
• Posted on Oct 16, 2008

SOURCE: GE Fridege TBX18J MS not getting cold

hi is the fan motor going in the freezer. if so how long has it been plugged in if more than 24 hrs and the fan is going. it could be that because it sat for 10 years the lines that go inside could have rusted out. so if this is the case its scrap sorry. the appliance doc.

SOURCE: Ice forming very fast on top shelf only

You said you checked the seal but one thing you can try to be double sure the seal is tight put a thin layer of vaseline along the entire seal it will fill in any gaps and you can be sure it is sealing completely.

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore side/side with water dispenser

Hi TJ,

It'll cost around $65.00 to take care of this problem. The problem is the water inlet valve. The part number is 4389177 and can be picked up at your local appliance parts retailer or you can get one online maybe for a better price (just plug the part number into your favorite search engine).

Here's what's happening... The valve I mentioned is actually a "dual coil" unit. One coil supplies the cold water, the other feeds the ice maker. These "coils" are independant of each other, so one coil can fail and the other can keep on truckin', no problem. But what you have is an Ice Maker coil/valve that is weak and it's allowing water to bypass.

Basically the IM valve isn't closing shut completely. Imagine a dripping faucet... that's what it's like except you can't hear the drops, you can only see the results. Imagine drop by drop rising up that tube behind the fridge and into the IM. One drop at a time. These drops of water go into the freezer compartment through the IM fill tube. Now when these little ***** drops slide down the fill tube inside the freezer compartment they flash freeze before they reach the IM. One drop after another... drip drop drip drop. All these little droplets of water eventually form a glacier inside the fill tube. 

OK, now we're at the point of glatiation. The fill tube (just behind the ice maker) has completely frozen solid. Now... when the IM "calls" for water to refill itself, the (failed) valve opens up and lets full pressure through. But where is this water/pressure going to go? The pressure builds inside the 1/4" water line until it can't handle it any more, the pressure looks for the path of least resistance. That path is the connection that you found loose. It blew out because the fill tube (into the freezer) is blocked with ice and the reason it's blocked is because the valve isn't shutting off completely.

That's alot of words to say this... it's an easy fix. Get the valve (above). Pull the fridge out. Unplug it. Turn the water off at the wall. Remove the water line going into the valve and set aside. Remove the cardboard panel. Remove the 2 screws holding the valve to the fridge. Pull the valve out. Note the electrical and tubing connections carefully. Get your new valve out and install the electrical and tubing just like the old one. Then rebuild, turn on the water and look for any leaks (use a flashlight and take a minute or two here... finding a leak now will save you alot of misery later). Replace the cardboard and plug it back in.

There ya go! Your first major appliance repair job done successfully? Priceless.

SG

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore Deep Freezer settings

It sounds like you have a circulation problem.
Spread out the packages so the freezing air can circulate.

• Check that the condenser fan is on
• Check that the coils are not covered with lint and dust especially if they are under the freezer.
• you may need a tech to put freon in the system.
  

SOURCE: I have a 7 year old Kenmore Upright

After you taken the back panel off and see a lot of ice forming on the coil before you use your hairdryer you should locate the timer and turn the center of the timer manually into defrost cycle. If you can see or hear the ice melting then your problem is the timer defective. Change the timer and that is all. But if it doesn't do anything then you will need a little bit more on electrical knowledge to deal with the rest on defrost temperature control and the element itself. Hope this help, God Bless.