MY DRYER DOOR WAS COMING OPENED DURING A DRYING CYCLE, HOWEVER WENT TO BED AND GOT UP AND DRYER WILL NOT WORK. THE DRUM LIGHT WORKS AND IT HAS 220 POWER BUT IT WILL NOT POWER UP. IT HAS NO ERROR SHOWING.. THE SEARS TECH CAME BY AND STATED THAT THE INNER FACE WAS BAD, SO I RECEIVED THE PARTS AND PUT THEM ON AND HAD ANOTHER TECH COME HER THAT WAS NOT FROM SEARS BUT LICENSED AND HE SAYS EVERYTHING IS ON CORRECTLY AND DRYER SHOULD WORK.. SINCE THE THERMAL FUSE IS GOOD.. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
YOU MAY WANT TO TEST YOUR DOOR SWITCH WITH AMULTI METER
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
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SOURCE: Kenmore 62822 electric dryer
Check your heating element to see if it is shorted to ground.
The element has 110V to it all the time, so if the element shorts to ground it will heat all the time. This is a fairly common failure.
If the element is ok, you may have a stuck centrifigul switch inside the motor, this is very rare but does happen sometimes.
Post back to let me know what you find or if you have any questions.
Thanks/Mike
SOURCE: Kemore Elite Oasis Dryer Error Code "AF?"
Problem solved! We read on here about someone else addressing the AF code by removing the back panel and fixing the pully that had come off. Belt was fine, with pully back in place dryer now works perfectly again. Thank you for saving us so much time and money!
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Oasis Electric Dryer
These are awesome solutions, L1 or the black hot wire supplies the lights and one leg of the heater while L2 the red power wire completes the circuit for the heater and powers the board. A great test is this, if the light is on and the load doesnt go, bad load. In this case trace the L2 line and find where the power stops, the first is the interface and the same goes for Frigidaire. I would also get the part number from Sears, tell them you will wait for money and then look for other local sources, it is worth the wait to save 80 dollars for a back order.
SOURCE: HE5 Dryer not working
Hello dram65,
Check the door interlock switch, if that's malfunctioning or not sensing the door is closed.. it will disable the drying function,
Regards,
Rick
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