Where can I get a new set of contact point that are in the end cap of my 0.5 hp AO Smith motor? The points are about 2'' long in a grey plastic molding shaped like the letter V. Pushing a red button puts the in contact. They are part of a Flotec shallow well pump motor made by AO Smith.

Try sears?
Or amazon.
Depending on the Frame of the AO Smith Motor, you can really put on any kind of Wet End, which is what you called the casing.

Just ensure that you get the correct HP

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=AO+Smith+1+1%2F2+HP+115%2F230V+56C&op=search&Ntt=AO+Smith+1+1%2F2+HP+115%2F230V+56C&N=0&sst=subset

Please contact me thru our website at www.arrowmotor.net and be sure to include the info in this post as well as the serial number from the motor. I should have the part you need in stock.

John

Unless you can find an HVAC shop with a NOS motor for this unit you will not find a drop in replacement. Even if you do get lucky and find a NOS motor be prepared to pay nearly as much for it as you would a whole new evap cooler.

That said, there are motors out there that will work, but you're going to have to make them fit with custom mounts.

It's still a little spendy, especially if you want two speeds like the original motor had, but you can get out for $80 or less if you're willing to settle for one speed (on/off).

boatandrvaccessories.com has a "Packard 40066" compressor motor for $69 plus $13 shipping. It may work but has only one speed.

Basically what you're looking for is a "48 frame", 1/8 hp, direct drive, 110-120v, 1075rpm, 1/2" shaft diameter and around 3" in length (to give you flexability when mounting), "totally enclosed" or "open drip-proof" housing (NOT "open"). Rotation can be either CW or CCW as you can mount the motor on either side of the housing and some motors are reversable. If you've got the skill to custom make some mounts then you can probably fudge some of these specs. The ones you can't change are the 1/2" shaft and the RPM. Do not exceed 1075rpm. The blower assembly simply can't be made to go much faster in that housing and if you try you will overheat the motor and burn it out very quickly (trust me on this one!). Most of the cheap motors I've found are 208-230v and I just don't see the point in having a small 220v PORTABLE evap cooler, that's just dumb.

After a LOT of online research I've found the following motors that would be a suitable replacement, with all the above mentioned specifications. I'm sure there are more, but cross referencing this information for someone not in the business is tricky and time consuming.

AdobeAir 1/8 HP 115V Motor for Adobe MMB10A RF031095 $116.66
http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_142/products_id/7451

Emerson 4856 (k055srj4796722b) (www.emersonmotors.com)
A.O. Smith 136A (UH1036NB) (www.aosmithmotors.com)
Magnetek 136 (now owned by A.O. Smith - www.aosmithmotors.com)
Fasco D733 or D261 (fasco.com)
Marathon X924 (www.marathonelectric.com)
AdobeAir RK232A check acehardwaresuperstore.com
Emerson K55HXKZT-9867

Grainger.com is a good resource but they are expensive.


The motors listed are suitable replacements, but have only one speed, "ON" or "High".

Packard 40066 - 115v 1075rpm $69 - SINGLE SPEED

A.O. Smith 321P177
A.O. Smith 323P077
A.O. Smith 323P487
A.O. Smith 323P490
A.O. Smith 323P677
A.O. Smith U6521
A.O. Smith UH1016
A.O. Smith UH1026NB
A.O. Smith UH9034
A.O. Smith US1016
A.O. Smith US1016NB
A.O. Smith ORZ1026
Brownell MTG3206
Century C045A
Carrier HC37DX120
Emerson 9034
Fasco D834
Franklin 8736010170
Franklin 8715810230
Franklin 8735810180
GE 3081
GE 3206
GE 3950
Grainger 3M658
Grainger 3M800
Grainger 3M828
Grainger 3M829
Marathon X302
Mars 03950
Packard 70066
Packard 40066
R.E. Michael 1E521
Reznor 55682
Reznor 64678
Rotom R12177
Rotom R12834
Rotom UH9034
Trane MOT6195
Universal U136
Universal U177
Universal U380
Universal U566
Universal U730


Good reading for selecting a replacement motor:
http://www.aosmithmotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=13100

I suppose that if you found a smoking deal on eBay for an "Open" type motor you could try it, but I doubt it would last long and make damn sure that ****** is grounded well.

Unless you can find an HVAC shop with a NOS motor for this unit you will not find a drop in replacement. Even if you do get lucky and find a NOS motor be prepared to pay nearly as much for it as you would a whole new evap cooler.

That said, there are motors out there that will work, but you're going to have to make them fit with custom mounts.

It's still a little spendy, especially if you want two speeds like the original motor had, but you can get out for $80 or less if you're willing to settle for one speed (on/off).

boatandrvaccessories.com has a "Packard 40066" compressor motor for $69 plus $13 shipping. It may work but has only one speed.

Basically what you're looking for is a "48 frame", 1/8 hp, direct drive, 110-120v, 1075rpm, 1/2" shaft diameter and around 3" in length (to give you flexability when mounting), "totally enclosed" or "open drip-proof" housing (NOT "open"). Rotation can be either CW or CCW as you can mount the motor on either side of the housing and some motors are reversable. If you've got the skill to custom make some mounts then you can probably fudge some of these specs. The ones you can't change are the 1/2" shaft and the RPM. Do not exceed 1075rpm. The blower assembly simply can't be made to go much faster in that housing and if you try you will overheat the motor and burn it out very quickly (trust me on this one!). Most of the cheap motors I've found are 208-230v and I just don't see the point in having a small 220v PORTABLE evap cooler, that's just dumb.

After a LOT of online research I've found the following motors that would be a suitable replacement, with all the above mentioned specifications. I'm sure there are more, but cross referencing this information for someone not in the business is tricky and time consuming.

AdobeAir 1/8 HP 115V Motor for Adobe MMB10A RF031095 $116.66
http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_142/products_id/7451

Emerson 4856 (k055srj4796722b) (www.emersonmotors.com)
A.O. Smith 136A (UH1036NB) (www.aosmithmotors.com)
Magnetek 136 (now owned by A.O. Smith - www.aosmithmotors.com)
Fasco D733 or D261 (fasco.com)
Marathon X924 (www.marathonelectric.com)
AdobeAir RK232A check acehardwaresuperstore.com
Emerson K55HXKZT-9867

Grainger.com is a good resource but they are expensive.


The motors listed are suitable replacements, but have only one speed, "ON" or "High".

Packard 40066 - 115v 1075rpm $69 - SINGLE SPEED

A.O. Smith 321P177
A.O. Smith 323P077
A.O. Smith 323P487
A.O. Smith 323P490
A.O. Smith 323P677
A.O. Smith U6521
A.O. Smith UH1016
A.O. Smith UH1026NB
A.O. Smith UH9034
A.O. Smith US1016
A.O. Smith US1016NB
A.O. Smith ORZ1026
Brownell MTG3206
Century C045A
Carrier HC37DX120
Emerson 9034
Fasco D834
Franklin 8736010170
Franklin 8715810230
Franklin 8735810180
GE 3081
GE 3206
GE 3950
Grainger 3M658
Grainger 3M800
Grainger 3M828
Grainger 3M829
Marathon X302
Mars 03950
Packard 70066
Packard 40066
R.E. Michael 1E521
Reznor 55682
Reznor 64678
Rotom R12177
Rotom R12834
Rotom UH9034
Trane MOT6195
Universal U136
Universal U177
Universal U380
Universal U566
Universal U730


Good reading for selecting a replacement motor:
http://www.aosmithmotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=13100

I suppose that if you found a smoking deal on eBay for an "Open" type motor you could try it, but I doubt it would last long and make damn sure that ****** is grounded well.

There is not a point setting for air compressors. The pressure switch can be adjusted. Remove the cover from the pressure switch. Adjust the nut tighter for a higher cut off pressure or looser for a lower cut off pressure. It sounds like the compressor is trying tostart under load. If the unloader valve is not working, the compressor will draw excess amperage and do what you describe. The unloader valve releases the pressure in the cylinder at the end of the run cycle so the compressor can start the next run cycle under no load.

check for a re-set button somewhere on the motor housing.

try running up this motor when its not installed on the compressor,, if it still blows the trips the motor is faulty,, if it runs ok, but hums when reconted to the compressor the compressor if far to tight for the motor to turn the compressor,,,you can not reset the points in a breaker trip they trip at a set curent if the motor is pulling more amps than the trip is set for it will trip the trip to turn off the curent, the motor will pull far more amps than it should if its over loaded thats why its humming its trying to spin up it but cant so it just keeps pulling more and more amps till the trip cuts out

AO Smith will send you a manual. Contact info http://www.aosmithmotors.com/contact/contactform.aspx?ekmensel=fb5d653b_6_16_btnlink

Most models have two screws on the back then you just pull it off. Some will have a small cap you just pry off about the size of a half dollar.