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dwight rose Posted on Nov 05, 2015

Ice forms in back of cube bin and also freezes some of the cubes in bin.

I changed the water valve and solenoid in the back. did not help.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 27 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 24, 2008

SOURCE: Water leaks into storage bin

open the machine control panel side and cube adjustable thermostat available in side,adjusted in the thermostat screw

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Anonymous

  • 286 Answers
  • Posted on May 13, 2009

SOURCE: Water over flow

Depends on the model. It could be a water switch that is sticking or a motor in the icemaker running to slow. My advise is to replace the faceplate of the icemaker. Part #150

rtrski

rtrski

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: ice cubes are hollow, freezing cycle too short

You don't specify a model number, but if it's one of the CLR series (e.g. CLR60, CLR2060, CLR2160) there is a small tan colored adjustable resistor 'dial' on the small circuit board located just beneath the ice bin, behind the front access panel. It should look like a round disk with teeth and has markings on it for -2, -1, 0, 1, 2.... Turn it up to +1 (or if it is already there, up one setting). Stop and restart the ice cycle. Wait 24 hours and see if that's enough or too much, and adjust further based on that. Do NOT adjust more than 1 setting in a day, per the user's manual. (And this information is IN the user's manual, so it's suggested reading.) If you don't have a CLR-series unit, then I don't know.

ALI ONE

  • 195 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 13, 2012

SOURCE: U-LINE ICE MAKER NOT MAKING A FULL TRAY OF ICE AND CUBES ARE SMALL

HI.KATHY.if u got enough water then it must be the ice thermostat cutting out too early.hope this helps ali

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0helpful
1answer

Freezer won't make ice cubes, but does provide cold water.

The water and ice maker are two seperate water control valves built onto the same. Your water control valve for the ice maker may be defective and require that you change the set. Fill ice maker with tap water and allow the water to freeze. If the ice maker dumps the ice into ice bin and then does not refill then this points to the water control valve. If the ice maker does nothing after water freezes then the problem is the ice maker. Send me a model number and I will look up the part numbers for you, Thanks, Sea Breeze
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1answer

Fridge freezer, water inlet pipe keeps warming up

The home icemaker's predecessor was the plastic ice tray. It's fairly obvious how this device works: You pour water into a mold, leave it in the freezer until it turns to a solid and then extract the ice cubes. An icemaker does exactly the same thing, but the process of pouring water and extracting cubes is fully automated. A home icemaker is an ice-cube assembly line.

Most icemakers use an electric motor, an electrically operated water valve and an electrical heating unit. To provide power to all these elements, you have to hook the icemaker up to the electrical circuit powering your refigerator. You also have to hook the icemaker up to the plumbing line in your house, to provide fresh water for the ice cubes. The power line and the water-intake tube both run through a hole in the back of the freezer.

When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches.

At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve. In most designs, the water valve is actually positioned behind the refrigerator, but it is connected to the central circuit via electrical wires. When the circuit sends current down these wires, the charge moves a solenoid (a type of electromagnet), which opens the valve.

The valve is only open for about seven seconds; it lets in just enough water to fill the ice mold. The ice mold is a plastic well, with several connected cavities. Typically, these cavities have a curved, half-circle shape. Each of the cavity walls has a small notch in it so each ice cube will be attached to the cube next to it.

Once the mold is filled, the machine waits for the water in the mold to freeze. The cooling unit in the refrigerator does the actual work of freezing the water, not the icemaker itself. The icemaker has a built-in thermostat, which monitors the temperature level of the water in the molds. When the temperature dips to a particular level -- say, 9 degrees Fahrenheit (-13 degrees Celsius) -- the thermostat closes a switch in the electrical circuit.

Closing this switch lets electrical current flow through a heating coil underneath the icemaker. As the coil heats up, it warms the bottom of the ice mold, loosening the ice cubes from the mold surface.

The electrical circuit then activates the icemaker's motor. The motor spins a gear, which rotates another gear attached to a long plastic shaft. The shaft has a series of ejector blades extending out from it. As the blades revolve, they scoop the ice cubes up and out of the mold, pushing them to the front of the icemaker. Since the cubes are connected to one another, they move as a single unit.

At the front of the icemaker, there are plastic notches in the housing that match up with the ejector blades. The blades pass through these notches, and the cubes are pushed out to a collection bin underneath the icemaker.

The revolving shaft has a notched plastic cam at its base. Just before the cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, the cam catches hold of the shut-off arm, lifting it up. After the cubes are ejected, the arm falls down again. When the arm reaches its lowest resting position, it throws a switch in the circuit, which activates the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm can't reach its lowest position, because there are stacked-up ice cubes in the way, the cycle is interrupted. This keeps the icemaker from filling your entire freezer with ice; it will only make more cubes when there is room in the collection bin.

This system is effective for making ice at home, but it doesn't produce enough ice for commercial purposes, such as restaurants and self-service hotel ice machines. In the next section, we'll look at a larger, more powerful icemaker design.

There are any number of ways to configure a large, free-standing icemaker -- all you need is a refrigeration system, a water supply and some way of collecting the ice that forms.

One of the simplest professional systems uses a large metal ice-cube tray, positioned vertically.

In this system, the metal ice tray is connected to a set of coiled heat-exchanging pipes like the ones on the back of your refrigerator. A compressor drives a stream of refrigerant fluid in a continuous cycle of condensation and expansion. Basically, the compressor forces refrigerant through a narrow tube (called the condenser) to condense it, and then releases it into a wider tube (called the evaporator), where it can expand.

Compressing the refrigerant raises its pressure, which increases its temperature. As the refrigerant passes through the narrow condenser coils, it loses heat to the cooler air outside, and it condenses into a liquid. When the compressed fluid passes through the expansion valve, it evaporates -- it expands to become a gas. This evaporation process draws in heat energy from the metal pipes and the air around the refrigerant. This cools the pipes and the attached metal ice tray.

The icemaker has a water pump, which draws water from a collection sump and pours it over the chilled ice tray. As the water flows over the tray, it gradually freezes, building up ice cubes in the well of the tray. When you freeze water layer by layer this way, it forms clear ice. When you freeze it all at once, as in the home icemaker, you get cloudy ice.

After a set amount of time, the icemaker triggers a solenoid valve connected to the heat-exchanging coils. Switching this valve changes the path of the refrigerant. The compressor stops forcing the heated gas from the compressor into the narrow condenser; instead, it forces the gas into a wide bypass tube. The hot gas is cycled back to the evaporator without condensing. When you force this hot gas through the evaporator pipes, the pipes and the ice tray heat up rapidly, which loosens the ice cubes.

Typically, the individual cube cavities are slanted so the loosened ice will slide out on their own, into a collection bin below. Some systems have a cylinder piston that gives the tray a little shove, knocking the cubes loose.

This sort of system is popular in restaurants and hotels because it makes ice cubes with a standard shape and size. Other businesses, such as grocery stores and scientific research firms, need smaller ice flakes for packing perishable items. We'll look at flake icemakers next.

In the last section, we looked at a standard cube icemaker design. Flake icemakers work on the same basic principle as cube icemakers, but they have an additional component: the ice crusher. You can see how a typical flake system works in the diagram below.

Like the cube icemaker design we examined in the last section, this machine uses a set of heat-exchanging coils and a stream of water to build up a layer of ice. But in this system, the coils are positioned inside a large metal cylinder. Water passes through the cylinder, as well as around its outer edges. The passing water gradually builds up a large column of ice surrounding the cylinder from the inside and outside.

As with a cube icemaker, a solenoid valve releases hot gas into the cooling pipes after a set length of time. This loosens the ice column so it falls into the ice crusher below. The ice crusher breaks the ice cylinder into small pieces, which pass on to a collection bin.

The size of the ice bits depends on the crusher mechanism. Some crushers grind the ice into fine flakes, while other crushers produce larger, irregularly shaped ice chunks.

There are many variations on these designs, but the basic idea in all of them is the same. A refrigeration system builds up a layer of ice, and a harvesting system ejects the ice into a collection bin. At the most basic level, this is all there is to any icemaker.


Mercedes Custom parts

1helpful
1answer

Sub zero 532, ice maker issue. water enter the cube bin freeze into a block of ice with the cubes embedded. What is the cause of this issue?

There is a few things that you will need to check to isolate the problem. this first thing is locate the fill tube where the water comes into the ice maker. What you are looking for is any ice frozen inside causeing an overspray of sorts. If that checks good, then the next thing is look at the icemaker itself. Look at where the water goes to and freezes. Is it completely full of frozen water? if so then the water valve is sending too much water either because the ice maker called for it or the valve stuck and didn't close when it was supposed to. If its not full, look at the bottom of the ice maker, checking if there are any cracks allowing water to fall into the bin. My personal opinion though would be to change the ice maker and the water valve because of the age of the machine. the bad part is the actual icemaker for that model has been discontinued but I believe you can use a whirlpool style that matches, comes in a kit that has both the water valve and icemaker, and cost almost half the price as the original. that part number is 1129313

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

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English instructions for saivod fhs186 ice maker

DO THE BASICS:
Change the water filter
Add ice machine cleaner and go by the directions.
What should be kept clean?
There are 5 things to keep clean:
1. The outside cabinet & door.
2. The ice storage bin.
3. The condenser.
4. The ice making system.
5. The ice scoop.
The ice storage bin should be sanitized
occasionally. It is usually convenient to sanitize the
bin after the ice making system has been cleaned,
and the storage bin is empty.
A sanitizing solution can be made of 1 ounce of
household bleach and two gallons of hot (950F. -
1150F.) water. Use a clean cloth and wipe the
interior of the ice storage bin with the sanitizing
solution, pour some of the solution down the drain.
Allow to air dry.

How to clean the condenser.
The condenser is like the radiator on a car, it has
fins and tubes that can become clogged. To clean:
1. Remove the kickplate.
2. Locate the condenser surface.
3. Vacuum the surface, removing all dust and lint.
Caution: Do not dent the fins.
4. Replace the kickplate.
Winterizing
1. Clean the machine as explained on the next
page.
2. Turn off the water supply.
3. Drain the water reservoir. See page 24, Spray
Pump Repair and follow the instructions to remove
the pump hose (step 2, bottom hose only).
4. Disconnect the incoming water line at the inlet
water valve.
5Remove control box cover and turn the timer
into the harvest cycle.
6. With the machine operating, blow air through
the inlet water valve; a tire pump could do the job.
7. Drain pump models should have about 1¤2 gallon
of RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) poured into the
ice storage bin drain.
Note: Automotive antifreeze must NOT be used.
8. Replace control box cover. Switch off and
unplug the machine.

CUBE ADJUSTMENTS
There are three items that may be adjusted: Cube
Size, Harvest Time, and Bin Level. Note: Cube
Size and Harvest Time adjustments should only be
done by a qualified service person.
Cube size control.
The cube size control should only be adjusted to
bring the cubes to the correct shape, the overall
size cannot be adjusted. Try to adjust the cube
size control when the ice machine is in the harvest
cycle, or in the first 10 minutes of the freeze cycle.
1. Open the door and remove the control box
cover.
2. Locate the cube size adjustment screw, and to
make fuller cubes, turn the screw clockwise about
1/4 turn. This will make the freezing cycle longer.
3. To shorten the freezing cycle and make cubes
that are not as full, turn the adjustment screw 1/4
turn counterclockwise.
4. After the next freezing cycle, the cubes should
have responded to the adjustment, if another
adjustment is required, do it early in the freeze
cycle.


Diagnostic Codes
Code Description
F - - - - - - - Freeze Cycle
F flashes- - - - Freeze Cycle is Pending
H - - - - - - - Harvest Cycle
H flashes- - - - Manual Harvest
b - - - - - - - Bin is Full
C - - - - - - - Clean Cycle
L - - - - - - - Board Locked
d - - - - - - - Test Mode
O - - - - - - - Off
E - - - - - - - Self Test Failed
1 flashes- - - - Max Freeze - Retrying
1 - - - - - - - Max Freeze Time Shut Down
2 flashes- - - - Max Harvest - Retrying
2 - - - - - - - Max Harvest Time Shut Down
3 - - - - - - - Slow Water Fill
4 - - - - - - - High Discharge Temp
5 - - - - - - - Sump Temp Sensor Failure
7 - - - - - - - Discharge Temp Sensor Failure
8 flashes - - - Short Freeze - Retrying
8 - - - - - - - Short Freeze - Thin ice
All 4 Upper Lights Flashing - Unit Remotely Locked Out

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

0helpful
1answer

Too much water is being dispensed when filling to make ice cubes. Water pours into ice bin and freezes. What to do?

You have to close the water supply tap from the source a little. This will decrease the volume of water being pumped into the ice maker. If this doen't work then you need to replace the solenoid valve that feed the water to the ice maker.
0helpful
4answers

Scotsman icemachine m# DCE33A-1WB ice cubes are hollow

There is a cube size thermostat that energizes the timer. If it has been energizing early try a thicker setting on the cube size. If still gives problems ... your trouble was back in Feb I assume in cold weather.. If the machine is not in a room where the temp stays above 65'f this can also cause premature harvesting as you discribe also. Also if you are loosing water from the water curtian not sealing off it will cause the problem you discribe because the water is dripping off and out before it can freeze. Any futher questions please post. If this helps you understand your trouble please rate me as high as yuou can, thank you for using fixya
9helpful
2answers

Ice dispenser only dispenses crushed ice

You may not need to replace the solenoid.  If you hear the hum, and not a loud click and don't see then rod move, it may be frozen with ice.  Test it manually with your hand, it should be free  to move up and down.  If not, then it is frozen with ice.  Remove the ice dispenser and let it thaw and dry out.  You should then be able to move to rod and it will work fine, at least until it freezes again.  Anyone know how to prevent it from freezing up? Its a continual problem for me
2helpful
2answers

Water does not dispense

You probably have a defective water inlet valve. This is a dual solenoid vavle that your supply line connects to. One solenoid supplies the icemaker and the other supplies the water dispenser. Replace this dual valve and it should take care of your problem.
0helpful
5answers

Scotsman CM250AE Ice Machine tech help

Check the bridge size adjustment at the top of the metal grid that the ice forms on. This determines the size of the cubes. Whenever you make a repair on the water system, especially on an older unit. make sure the unit is clean. A little bit of calcium deposits (or that other nasty looking stuff) getting into the passage ways will make it run erratically, and can drive you nuts.
1helpful
1answer

The water continues to drip after the ice cube maker is full.

Sounds like the water fill solenoid valve is leaking by. You will have to change that solenoid valve if the water continues to drip into the ice maker tray after a normal fill cycle. http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=JCD2295HES&mfgModelNum=JCD2295HES&fkMfgID=1
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