How do I calibrate it to get rid of the dead spot in the center of the steering

Who told you , was it checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes ? Rather then just replacing parts why don't you take it to a qualified repair shop . Besides , the new module need's Programming and Setup , and a factory scan tool to do it .
Steering Position Sensor Calibration
Install the scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Center the steering wheel.
With the scan tool select Special Functions.
Select Steering Position Sensor Calibration and press the Enter key. The scan tool screen will flash Calibration in Progress then display Calibration Complete.
Press the exit key.
Use the scan tool in order to clear any EPS DTCs.

Keith, The wheel you have has an intentional dead spot (0) in the center position. There are several ways to assign buttons, and even select a different center, but in the center position, it will always be (0) The PS2 version of this racing wheel lacks the proper calibration settings to make the (0) zone smaller like other analogue controllers. I have the same issues with the same racing wheel for the Xbox, and other after market controllers. The manufacturer does not consider analogue "sensitivity" when making a controller. That keeps costs down, and lets them produce an "Average" product, instead of a "SYSTEM STANDARD QUALITY" product. A prime example of this, is the Wheel in question. (0) is hands off of the wheel centered. +1(right) 1/8 rotation before connection for controls. Think of the wheel as a piece of pie. you only get 1/2 rotation in either direction. The concept 4 slices it into 1/8 for analogue control. A quality wheel (expensive) slices the pie into 1/16. I hope this helps. When it comes to racing wheels, it's user preference.

Turn engine by hand ( use a socket on the alt pulley) and watch crank shaft balancer look and drivers side of engine just between water pump and power steering a small pointer is on the timing cover bring the cut groove into the point slot this is Top Dead Center now remove distributor cap the rotor may be pointing to #1 electrode or # 6 electrode This does not matter follow the electrode down side of cap the rotor should point to this spot tighten distributor reassemble start engine check the PID data for cam shaft sensor offset it should be 0 to +4 degrees if not adjust distributor accordingly then rev engine to 1800 rpm to re calibrate adjustment and update scanner. done.

If you going to try to diagnose it yourself you will want to get a friend to help spot you.
Typically your symptom is due to a worn out steering component. You will want to inspect wheel-bearings, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, idler arm, drag-link, and steering box.
If you need more specific info then let me know.

It sounds like the rudder feedback has a dead spot in the center of it. The replacement part numbers:

Rotary (inboard engines): M81105
Linear (outboard engines): M81188

Your desctiption sounds like your settings are incorrect. I reccomend that an alignment shop adjust for you.

A common mistake on this type of project is steering box centerning. to test, from straight ahead, stop.., turn wheel from dead center to the stop, and measure exactly how many turns. From dead center, it must be the same both ways.

Steering boxes have an exact center setting, and get looser (so to speak) as turned right or left off of that spot. SOOO, if set to one side or the other, steering gets tighter when turning in one direction as compared to the other.

Get an alignment shop to set this up, it is common problem.

to chk the sensor on the calibration unplug the wheel from the usb port and plug back in if the wheel turns left then right and centers the sensor is fine. go to the control panel>game controller>properties and test the wheel if everything is working there it is a problem with the game. look for a profiler or calibration utility in the game itself to bring back to center.

You didn't specify if your vehicle is 2- or 4-wheel drive. If 4 wheel, you may have a failing contstant velocity joint which, when having developed worn spots in the cage can cause the noise you describe.
Typically, turning the wheel back and forth can cause the noise to become less or more loud and often the combination of a specific speed and driving a certain curve radius can cause the noise to nearly disappear or become more pronounced.

Try:
1. Check your setting once more.
2. Reinstall sterring wheel drivers.
3. Reinstall game.

I hope this helps,
Yannick.

1. To calibrate the ENTouch 1000 power off the device.

2. Prior to restoring power touch the pen to the center of the screen and do not move it.

3. Power on the device. Leave pen in center of the screen and do not move it. If you move it the device will not enter calibration mode.

4. Allow device to boot. If you held the pen in place the EnTouch 1000 will enter calibration mode.

5. Follow the on screen instructions. Be very methodical and do not try to rush it...