Tylo super sport 2/4 sauna heater. Unit will not heat.

The unit you state is a Sauna heater/humidifier. I do not understand how or why it is connected to a heating ventalting air conditioning (HVAC) system, please explain.

On top of the unit/sauna, you will need to remove the roof or wood covering. It is held down with screws, usually. If your unit in fact does have a reset it will be located on the side of the control box which is located on top of the sauna.

Remove the unit bottom panel (2 small screws) and look at the quick disconnect terminals on the heater rods ( 6 heating rods - 3 on each side of the unit). If you have any corrosion on these terminals, the wires will overheat and fail, preventing the heating rods from working. If the wires did overheat, you should see melted wire insulation. Replace bad wire and quick disconnect terminals with new. Should cost less than $20.

There are two possible answers:

First, does the timer receive 240 Volts from the circuit breaker? If your 240 Volt water heater heats water when timer is manually switched on, then the answer is yes, and the 240 V circuit is fine.

If the timer is not getting 240 V, it can still appear to have power if 1/2 of the 240 volt breaker is sending power, but the other 1/2 of the breaker is defective. You can test the breaker with a tester, or by moving wires to another breaker of the same size.

The second possible answer is that the clock motor is burned out. WW Grainger sells a replacement for $16. Clock attaches with 2 small screws.
Here is link to Grainger:http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=Wh40&op=search&Ntt=Wh40&N=0&sst=subset
Here is a photo of back of WH40 showing clock motor:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Back-of-WH40-3-850.jpg

Heaters are pretty simple: when timer is on, voltage is applied to the heater elements until timer turns off. To troubleshoot your problem, use a multimeter or circuit tester to check the terminal connections on the heating elements themselves. With the timer ON, you should be able to read voltage (120 or 240, depending on your heater) at those connections. If you don't check the continuity of the wiring from your timer to your heater. Continuity w/out voltage at the element indicates a faulty timer, no continuity means bad wiring. If you do read voltage at the element but it isn't heating, your element is burnt out -- time to replace it. If it's a newly assembled setup or seems odd to be burnt out for some other reason, double check that you're using the correct voltage for that particular heater... 120vac won't run a heater rated at 240vac.

Hi Andy, I am Kelly and wish to at least make an attempt to help you out. I have done quite a bit of research and like you have come up with little nothing positive.

You may have to buy your own 3 phase 24DC controlled contactor and control that with a yet another relay.

At this point you may want to call Tylo direct or email them and explain your needs to see if they can help you.

Page 8 of their installtion manual shows several 3 Phase connections
http://superiorsaunas.com/storeimages/products/heaters/tylo/tylo_elec_install.pdf

Tylo contct info:

TYLö AB, Svarvaregatan 6, S-30250 Halmstad, Sweden.
Tel +46 35 10 00 80, Fax +46 35 102580. E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.tylo.se

Here is the controller you may need with a 5 meter capillary tube. it does not say if it is 3 Phase and it is mecanical.

Seriously I would contact Typo directly via the contact info above and solve your problem quickly.

The link.... for the TS-30-012

http://www.saunahaus.com/Sauna-Control-Units/Sauna-control-TYLOe/TYLOe-Control-panel-TS-30-012::218.html

I do wish you the best.

more than likley installation problem not enough voltage top operate heating element

If drum turns and no heat.
If unit is electric, look for:

1. Safety tripped or malfunctioned at heater elements.

2. Burnt out element. Wire has come loose or burnt off due to loose connection.

3. Clogged or restricted exhaust. This causes a safety to activate and stops the heating process.

4.Timer malfunction and needs replaced.

5. Improper voltage to unit. Reset breaker and verify proper voltage to unit. (Usually between 208 to 240 volts depending where you are located and the manufacturer of the unit.

Please keep in mind that in many cases, it is cheaper to buy a new unit that it is to repair the exsisting one. Do you homework on this. I've gotten real good dryers at about $200 from places like Lowes.

Hope this helps and let me know how things work out.