The microwave door switch broke and we are unable to open it. The inside plate continued to move very slowly around until we located and turned off the fuse. What should we do?

My HBC 86 showed this behavior, after a fuse for the microwave operations was blown (remove the top cover and you will see it on a board close to the door). It's an 8A, medium speed. There might be different reasons, why the fuse is blown. In my case, the switches that detect whether the oven door is closed or open caused the problem. There are two connected with the microwave, one on the left (a bipolar switch) and another on the right. The switches will cause a short-circuit (and thus a blown fuse), if the left one detects an open door and the right one a closed door - it's an additional security feature. The problem can be caused by a blocked or slowly reacting switch. You might want to clean/replace the switches and/or put the right switch as far as possible away from the door so that it detects a close later (and open earlier). A good thing for testing: the problem occurs without actually starting the microwave.

Just click below;

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR MICROWAVE?

For a detailed Microwave illustration, click below.

Counter top
Built in
Danger! You can receive a serious electrical shock from the components inside your microwave oven--even when it's unplugged. Only a qualified appliance repair technician should perform any repair.

It doesn't work at all
It sounds normal, but there's no heat
I can't adjust the power level
The carousel won't turn
I have intermittent cooking problems
The display flickers
There's no heat, but it buzzes loudly
It quit after I slammed the door
It looks like there's lightning (arcing) inside my microwave


Hope it may help;

Regards,
VOTIT

hello,

Here is a solution to go about the glass bellow

Removing your microwave door allows you to quickly clean out any accumulated food or grease. This also makes it easy to get to all the crumbs and debris around the door hinges. While you have the door off its hinges, examine the plastic panel and glass window for signs of damage. Make sure you install a replacement door that is designed for your brand of microwave to ensure that it will fit correctly.

Remove the power cord from the electrical outlet and move your microwave onto a workbench or sturdy table. For cabinet-mounted microwaves, pry off the decorative grills or front panels and remove the mounting screws. You should then be able to slide the microwave out of its mounting bracket.

2 Open the microwave door and remove the glass tray. Use a flathead screwdriver or putty knife to pry off the plastic cover on the inside of the door. Work around the edge of the glass until the cover slips free.

3 Remove the door by pulling the mounting pins out of the hinges at the top and bottom. You may need an assistant to steady the door so you can have both hands free to work with the pins.

hope this solution help?

Thanks for visiting fixya.

if you open the oven door all the way, then, look under the control panel (where the top of the oven door seats) you will see a plate that has 6 to 8 screws holding it in place.Remove the screws of that plate with a phillips screwdriver.You will possibly need a flashlight to look inside the space where the reset switch is located... but it is THERE. Make SURE that you TURN OFF the circuit breaker or... UNPLUG the range... B4 you proceed to reset. Look for the Red Button on the back side of one of the limit control switches. Press it in till it clicks. (sometimes you'll hear it... sometimes you wont). Plug baack in ro reset your breaker switch, Turn on your oven and see if it works. If it does... then replace the vent plate close your oven door and now your cook"n with gas...well... electricity really.

There are two metal clips at the bottom of the glass that hold the bottom of the glass in place- you can see these from the inside when the door is open and from the outside at the bottom of the door when the door is closed. There are two metal clips at the inside top of the door. You can see these when the door is open slightly inward from the "switch pins on each side.
Open the door. You will see 2 small (about 1/16") metal pieces about 1/2 " in from the 2 switch pins. CAUTION: WITH SOMEONE ELSE HOLDING THEIR HAND UNDER THE GLASS PANEL. Press the 2 metal pins in. Then slowly pull down on handle until the metal parts move down past the tiny opening on the black inner door. This glass is tempered and I can tell you from experience it will break in a million pieces if you are not careful tohold the glass.

It's delicate but very easy. Just be careful

is yours a convection and microwave combo oven? if yes the fan is a cool-down fan to blow cold air over the magnatron tube. Microwaves are designed with a multiple number of safety switches usually 2 or more in the door that the magnatron (the thing that generates microve energy) could never come on with the door open.

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.

Hi, well this is a brain tester!! I think you need really to look at this in a simple way. Check to see where the door lock wires come from first? Find where the mains power comes into? then if it goes directly to the main control board then check to see if there is any power getting through the board to the otherside where the wires disapear into the cooker. I would consider checking the control board for any signs of burn damage and then look at the clock unit to as these are normally the main components in the cooker that will stop it from working.
Good luck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

the switches are on the left or right side or both (there may be two).locate them and theres 2 wires on the switch.jump them out.if there bad replace them as it would be a hazard issue for radiation not to.