I have a hose hanging down it has a red clip on the end that's not attached the other end runs up to the back of motor under cap and rotor any ideas 1997 dodge 5.9 loter

the only thing I can figure is some one put a transistor kit in your distributor however you would still need the cap on and the rotor working. Don't think it would run with no spark to the plugs, with the exception of the old farmalls that ran on gas and then switched over to fuel oil, they ran on compression like a diesel !

Instructions1 Unplug the electrical cord of the washing machine from the electrical outlet before attempting to repair the water pump.
2 Turn the water supply off at the shut-off valves behind the washing machine by hand.
3 Press in on the end caps of the washer while pulling forward to remove the caps from the control console and locate the screws in the front of the console on each end.
4 Unfasten the screws on the control console with a screwdriver and flip the console back so that it rests on the rear hinges.
5 Unplug the lid switch connector from the top of the dryer near the back, lifting the plug off the metal prongs by hand. Use a screwdriver to pry up the metal clips that are holding the top on the dryer.
6 Lift the top lid off the washer base, set the top out of the way, and locate the water pump at the bottom of the cabinet on the motor shaft.
7 Slide the metal clips off the top of the water pump with a screwdriver and remove the pump from the motor shaft.
8 Place a plastic container underneath the water pump to catch any water from the pump and detach the hoses, unfastening the clamps with a screwdriver.
9 Remove the hoses from the pump, allowing the excess water to drain into the plastic container, and remove the pump from the washing machine.
10 Attach the hoses to the new water pump, securing the clamps with a screwdriver. Place the new pump on the motor shaft, sliding the metal clips back over the pump.
11 Take the plastic container out of the washer cabinet, disposing of the water. Place the top lid of the washer back over the cabinet, securing it with the metal clips on the top.
12 Plug the lid switch connector back into the top of the washer near the back, attaching the connector by hand. Flip the control console back down over the washer, securing the console with screws on the ends.
13 Fasten the end caps back over the control console by hand and turn the water supply back on at the shut-off valves.
14 Plug the electrical cord of the washer into the electrical outlet.
THanks

More then likely the coupling between the motor and the transmission. To get to it tilt control panel back (held down by either two screws font or rear in the end caps or two clips under front of end caps . Remove two clips holding back to case . Remove plug to lid switch . Tilt case up and forward from back and remove. clips hog pump to motor. Clips hold motor to trani.(screws to hold clips).Coupling in three pieces

The water level is controlled by the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load level/size selector knob. You either have a pressure switch that is malfunctioning, or something more simple. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r762094-washer_overflows

I would first run a small amount of water in the wash tub (about 1/4 full), shut the washer off and unplug. Open the console and see if the small air hose is still attached to the pressure switch. If not, reconnect and your problem should be solved. If the air hose IS attached carefully disconnect it and blow through it. You should get air bubbles in the wash tub if the hose is not clogged or leaking somewhere. If the hose is damage in anyway, replace it.

Double check your electrical connections and make sure the contacts are clean. Sometimes the contacts corrode with age and will not function properly.

If all these preliminary mesures do not work, replace your pressure switch.

If you need to access the interior of the washer, follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Check the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There should be a small plastic air hose attached to what is called the "airdome". If this air hose comes off, the tub will leak as it starts to fill. The other end of this hose connects to the pressure switch. Do a visual check to see if anything may be clogging it. You can remove the hose if it is clogged and blow air through it to remove most obstructions.

To reinstall the washer casing, follow these steps to ensure you get the case correctly placed and secure on the frame:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Let me know if you need any further assistance. I hope this helps you.

This is NOT for older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, there is a Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. NOTE: Inspect the motor coupling. If it shows signs of wear, this would be a good time to replace it.

10. Install the new Drive Motor. Make sure all the black rubber pads are on the motor (there are four of them). These help to reduce noise and vibration. Also, make sure the white cardboard piece that covers the bottom of the motor remains in place. This is a splash guard to prevent water from splashing into the motor in the event of a leak or overflow. Now, line up the motor coupling correctly and place the lower motor retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

11. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

12. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

13. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

14. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

15. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

16. Reinstall console.

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1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Matchmark the relationship of the wheel to the axle flange. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Reinstall two lug nuts to retain the rotor.
4. If the caliper is being removed from the vehicle for replacement or overhaul, perform the following:
   • Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Plug the opening in the caliper and the brake hose to prevent fluid loss and system contamination.
   • Detach the parking brake cable by lifting up on one end of the cable spring clip to free the end of the cable from the lever.
5. Remove the bolt and washer attaching the cable support brake to the caliper body assembly.
6. Remove the sleeve bolt, then remove the caliper body assembly. Pivot the caliper body up to clear the rotor and then slide it inboard off the pin sleeve.
7. If the caliper is being removed for shoe and lining replacement or to provide access to the support bracket, rotor of wheel brake components, hang the caliper from suspension using a suitable wire hook so as not to stretch or damage the brake hose or brake cable.
8. Inspect the pin boot, bolt boot and sleeve for cuts, tears or deterioration. If damaged, replace the boots.

To Install:

1. Install the caliper assembly, as follows:
   • If not replaced, remove the pin boot from the caliper body assembly and install the small end over the pint sleeve (installed on the caliper support) until the boot seats in the pin groove. This is to prevent cutting the pin boot when the sliding body assembly onto the pin sleeve.
   • Hold the caliper body assembly in position it was removed and start over the end of the pin sleeve. As the caliper body assembly approaches the pin boot, work the large end of the pin boot in the caliper body groove. Then push the caliper body fully onto the pin.
   • Pivot the caliper body assembly down, using care not to damage the piston boot on the inboard shoe. Compress the sleeve boot by hand as the caliper body move into position to prevent boot damage.
   • After the caliper body assembly is in position, recheck the installation of the pad clips. If necessary, use a small prytool to re-seat or center the pad clips on the support abutments.
2. Install the sleeve bolt and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
3. Fasten the cable support bracket (with the cable attached) with the retaining bolts and washer. Tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
4. If disconnected, attach the end of the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever by lifting up on the end of the cable spring clip and work the end of the parking brake cable into the notch in the lever.
5. Unplug and attach the brake hose, if it was disconnected.
6. Remove the two lug nuts retaining the rotor.
7. Install the wheel and tire assembly, aligning the marks made during removal.
8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then bleed the brake system if the brake hose was disconnected.
9. Firmly depress the brake pedal 3 times to seat the pads against the rotors.

Using the model number you provided, go to searsparstdirect.com and type it in the search menu. Look under the "Brake, Clutch, Gearcase, Motor & Pump" heading. If this is your model number, this washer uses a motor coupling (item 13) in place of a drive belt. If the washer is not spinning you may just have a coupler that is broken (this is common). Instead of tipping the washer back (not recommended because there is oil in the gearcase that can leak out), follow these steps to check:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

Check the motor coupling and let me know. This may be a simple problem...

This is NOT for older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, there is a Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. NOTE: Inspect the motor coupling. If it shows signs of wear, this would be a good time to replace it.

10. Install the new Drive Motor. Make sure all the black rubber pads are on the motor (there are four of them). These help to reduce noise and vibration. Also, make sure the white cardboard piece that covers the bottom of the motor remains in place. This is a splash guard to prevent water from splashing into the motor in the event of a leak or overflow. Now, line up the motor coupling correctly and place the lower motor retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

11. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

12. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

13. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

14. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

15. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

16. Reinstall console.

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