SOURCE: John Deere Gx75, kawasaki 9hp motor- oil in carb!
A very common problem with the GX series with Kawasaki engines. The carburetor 'inlet needle' sticks open and fills the crankcase with fuel. When checking the oil, it can be difficult to see the gasoline and the level appears to be OK. Remove the dipstick and smell the oil, you may detect a gasoline smell. Also, drain the oil, and you may find much more fluid than you expect.
The solution on newer mowers was to install an 'in-line' shut-off valve to keep the fuel from syphoning into the carburetor. The inlet needle and seat in the carburetor is NOT replaceable, so a new carburetor is the ultimate solution, but VERY expensive. Installing and using an in-line shut-off valve is more affordable.
Also, this situation is common when machine is transported on a trailer, as the bouncing causes the needle/seat to leak. When transporting, always turn off the fuel supply to the carburetor.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
SOURCE: Our new to us john deere 345 tractor won't keep running
You may try blowing backwards from behind the fuel filter into the gas line. Not to much air pressure though. Make sure the gas cap is off.
SOURCE: John Deere will not start.
If you have gas running down to the carberator ( take the fuel line off and make sure there is gas running to it or there may be a screen or filter plugged by the tank or on the way to the carb) if there is gas there the problem lies in the carb itself. If you have some mechanical ability you should be all right as it is not rocket science. If you are comfortable with taking the carb apart the first thing i would check is the needle vavle. With the carb apart you will see a big brass looking thing this is the float, right above that is the neddle valve, that is the first place they seem to stick on me. Move the float up and down if the neddle above it doesn't move or sticks there is your problem. Spray it with carb cleaner and see if it moves freely. You may have to dismantle the carb to get it to work freely. If it won't buy a carb kit and install all the new gaskets needle valves and jets ( this is a very good ideal any how) Also make sure any little ports in the carb are open ( in the bottom of the carb there may be tiny little holes that are plugged) find a very small wire to clean them with and also make sure when you are done you can spray carb cleaner thru them. This is why they have a small straw on the can with it ( watch your eyes and wear safety glasses as you never know where it will spray out from) That stuff will dry your skin out fast so don't get it in your eyes and you may want to wear rubber gloves. Also be very careful when putting back together as there are little pieces that like to slide around and fall out or may get bent even worse you don't want them in your motor. Also try to count every screw you turn as these are jets and you will want to put them back to the place they were set at cause it's a pain to get them set right by adjusting them later. Do not force anything putting it back as you may bend the jets or float and you will have to take it apart again and replace them as well. Take your time and be patient and you will be just fine
Testimonial: "thanks...you gave me encouragement to give it a try. I took off the shroud, air cleaner box and couldn't take off the carb as there are no heads on the four bolts that hold it on. Looks like it was designed not to be removed? I took off an inspection plate on top of the carb and cleaned all of the channels and ports within with carb cleaner and compressed air...still no gas flowing thru carb...unless I force with compressed air. Any other thoughts? It is a twin cylinder OHV B/S. Thank you. "
SOURCE: problem with John Deere L120 tractor
Park brake switch is the most likely culprit,any other would cause the tractor to not turn over in the crank position.
SOURCE: John Deere ZTRAK 737 zero turn - runs rough - one plug
My idea would be to replace the coil to that plug
Jim Kite paris, il
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